Recent content by bc3j

I still have 55 year old wiring, but I use a headlight wiring harness with relays from Crackedback, Rob Yule. His harness is excellent workmanship with upgraded wiring isolating the inadequate factory headlight wiring from the system. Using his harness connected directly to the alternator I have...

FWIW I use a Mopar replica yellow capped battery. AGM technology and got 9 years out of my first battery. My battery is alway on a battery tender when not in use. The battery was on the expensive side, but I wanted the OEM look under the hood. I’ve had my car for 13 years and am only on my...

Doctor Diff should be able to set you up with what you need. FWIW I’d consider using all Mopar sourced parts. The Mopar stuff works well together.

I have slider calipers on my 70 Challenger and use an A body front brake hose from 1975 Dart. I have front mounted calipers.

I believe the 1970 top bar is 1 1/8” and used 5/16” bolts. 1971+ top bar 1 3/8” and used 3/8” bolts in addition to the other stuff mentioned.

I have an unrestored 70 RT with the heavy duty suspension with .90 bars. All I do is cruise with the car. Those bars work fine for me. If you’re considering more maneuverability bigger bars is where you should go. I do just street cruising and the ride quality fits my needs and the car handles...

I experimented with Vitour Galaxy R1 Radial GT tires. They’re V rated and I use 235/60-15 front and rear. On for three years now and no problems. So far so good. Lettering stays white.

I have an original Sublime ‘70 RT with the rear black panel. Built 1/23/1970 from the LA plant.

I used info from Daniel Stern lighting and use Kioto reflector housings with H4 hi/lo and H1 high beam Tungsram +120 bulbs along with Crackedback’s headlight rely wiring harness. His wiring harness is assembled with top quality parts and his workmanship is excellent. Lighting is excellent and I...

I might suggest you contact Cass at doctordiff.com for your braking needs. He’s a great source for information and parts.

Might check the chip inside on the tach’s board. Found out the electronic box was not compatible with factory tach’s board. Had my tach rebuilt with the new chip and it works fine. Auto Instruments in Virginia did the rebuild and told me the tach will now work with any electronic system.

Probably not the best in audio quality, but I use a iHome small Bluetooth speaker that I rest between the console and the passenger seat and stream Sirius XM through my iPhone. This is similar to mine because I don’t think they make my model anymore.

Same here too. LA built 1/23/70. No build sheet.

If you can soak it with rust penetrant they make extractor sockets that grab onto bolt heads. I’ve had success using those in the past. Harbor Freight might have them.

I did the same thing. Bought a non AC double groove crank pulley and a non AC water pump pulley from 440 Source for my 383 RT. It worked perfectly for me as I was also able to achieve an acceptable alternator pulley ratio with the 440 Source non AC double groove pulley. You can always put the AC...