Recent content by bc3j

My 70 CA built Challenger gas cap with the ECS system has the words PRESSURE VACUUM on the cap. That’s only for the cars with the ECS system. It in the FSM page 14-117. I think that cap is for any car w/o ECS. No idea of it’s value.

As a suggestion, upon reassembly of the coupler, I might suggest a coupler clamp. Detroit Muscle sells them. I read somewhere there was a service bulletin to use the clamp anytime the coupler was removed for service.

I believe Chrysler eliminated the residual pressure valves from the master cylinders in the mid 70s. There are expanders in the rear wheel cylinders now. I have an aluminum 1 1/32” MC from Dr Diff with front disc/rear drums and it works fine without the residual pressure valve. The Disc-O-Tech...

The cap is for the end of the shoulder belt that’s stored in the clips over the door windows. The lap portion is stored in the cap at the end of the console that connects to the shoulder belt. Two piece front seat belts, lap and shoulder. That’s for a 1970. Not sure when Mopar changed to a one...

From the picture in post#4 that can be easily centered. From the inside remove the “O” ring retaining plate and slide it up. Then loosen the three bolts on the floor plate and have someone outside looking at the shaft while the floor plate is moved around from the inside until the shaft is...

I just ordered a front valance for my 70 Challenger. I know the mounting is different. Check in the FSM for the Cuda. The FSM for the Challenger shows the mounting. Not sure, but maybe the Cuda FSM is available for download at mymopar.com.

I shopped Rock Auto, Bendix rotors, but knocked the races out when I got them and put in Timken races and bearings.

I’ve have a LED for my shifter in place for six years without an issue. Should work. Used a white BA9S from superbrightleds.com. You’re going to have to remove the console top plate then remove the screws holding the console in place and lift the console up. Bulb was easily removed and replaced...

I still have 55 year old wiring, but I use a headlight wiring harness with relays from Crackedback, Rob Yule. His harness is excellent workmanship with upgraded wiring isolating the inadequate factory headlight wiring from the system. Using his harness connected directly to the alternator I have...

FWIW I use a Mopar replica yellow capped battery. AGM technology and got 9 years out of my first battery. My battery is alway on a battery tender when not in use. The battery was on the expensive side, but I wanted the OEM look under the hood. I’ve had my car for 13 years and am only on my...

Doctor Diff should be able to set you up with what you need. FWIW I’d consider using all Mopar sourced parts. The Mopar stuff works well together.

I have slider calipers on my 70 Challenger and use an A body front brake hose from 1975 Dart. I have front mounted calipers.

I believe the 1970 top bar is 1 1/8” and used 5/16” bolts. 1971+ top bar 1 3/8” and used 3/8” bolts in addition to the other stuff mentioned.

I have an unrestored 70 RT with the heavy duty suspension with .90 bars. All I do is cruise with the car. Those bars work fine for me. If you’re considering more maneuverability bigger bars is where you should go. I do just street cruising and the ride quality fits my needs and the car handles...

I experimented with Vitour Galaxy R1 Radial GT tires. They’re V rated and I use 235/60-15 front and rear. On for three years now and no problems. So far so good. Lettering stays white.