Recent content by Cav73

Grumpyb, thanks! I tried that with the rear carpet section where the seat platform rises up from the floor pans and it worked pretty well. I also put down carpet tape right where the carpet bends upwards, so when I pressed the carpet down it stayed put. I was worried about trying this method...

Terrywalker, thanks for the photos and link. I will use a steamer and as suggested by Pschlosser, a space heater too - I actually have a small electric one I can use to heat the interior. Thanks for these suggestions. MoparCarGuy, the ACC carpet may not be as good as the Classic Industries...

Thanks RonBo73, the steamer sounds like the way to go. Here is photo of the carpet in place, with trim ring and shifter installed. You can see marks where I had weights on the carpet to give it some shape. I had good luck with the back carpet using a heat gun under the carpet to heat up the...

Also, based on that #203 photo from the 1970 FE5 'Cuda Build thread, maybe the carpet is not supposed to be tight all the way down to the floor? It does not look like his is tightened all the way to the floor in that pic. If it is just supposed to flare down gently there, that could be the answer.

Thanks for comments everyone. Avalanche, it is definitely a 4 speed carpet, from ACC. I think the main issue now is it is very cold out and thus the carpet is cold too, so it is stiff. It may go into that "corner pocket" more easily once I warm it thoroughly. Working on how (thanks to...

Thank you. I want to avoid melting fibers also; I did damage a few on the rear carpet before I knew better. I will check out what Harbor Freight has, there is one nearby. I do not have a photo at the moment, but I attached a sketch showing the area I am most concerned about - it is in yellow...

Hi, I am in process of shaping a new ACC front to the floor pan in my Challenger. This is the standard carpet, not the one with the mass backing. The rear carpet is in and sitting nicely. Per discussion on the forum, I used weights and double-sided tape to pin the carpet down, and a soldering...

MoparCarGuy, thanks much for the speedy reply! I did use double sided carpet tape on the vertical surfaces in front of the rear seat, and it worked well. I also used a heat gun on low heat while pulling down on the carpet. Some members have stated that you shouldn't use anything that...

Hi, I followed this discussion in October-November, to install a new ACC carpet in my 4-speed Challenger. I went with the updated advice above (separating water from the carpet makes sense) and screwed the shifter boot to the transmission hump direct. Previously, I installed dynamat over the...

I am checking on all the carpet install threads as I am just getting started on a new ACC carpet for my Challenger (I did not get the mass backing because I put down dynamat). This one is really helpful. I do not have the original carpet to use as a reference - does anyone know by how many...

Cool thanks; good reason to get my bench grinder going. I just don't want it to close to the car as with my luck I'll shoot a bolt right into the paint LOL. Space is a bit tight around it!

That makes sense, thanks. It explains that some thread on the bolt is corroded, where it was seated in the threaded hole, but above that line the threads are clean. And also why it is hard to run a straight tap through the hole. Is there a good way to clear corrosion out of the seat belt bolt...

The chart MoparCarGuy posted in this thread in February is really helpful - I needed to sort out the seat belt bolts for my 73 Challenger, which were mostly mixed up in a box. Some came from a 72 Challenger I had earlier. Three of them were rear seat belt bolts, still screwed in place in my...

Hi, I saw this post today while researching seat belt bolts for my Challenger. Did you ever get an answer? I tried to clean the shoulder belt hole threads with a 7/16-20 tap also, a few days ago. It did not go so well, and I believe that is because the bolts and the holes are tapered. The...

Just following up, I did drill out the hole for the clutch safety switch wire at the correct location using a very long bit from inside the car (3/8 if I recall), then deburred it and painted the bare steel edge. The dimple made drilling relatively easy. I just need a grommet now.