Recent content by gs73rallye

For anyone not familiar, once you rebuild it, there are dozens of steps involved in properly setting one up. They must be done in order. I have to look and see if I can find my book on them, from when I was a Chrysler tech.

Red hose goes to the hi side, which is the smaller line. Blue hose goes to the low side which is the larger line. The yellow hose hooks to the vacuum pump, or the freon tank.

With serial number five that was built as a pilot car. The fender tag is just a factory misprint, where they didn't update the sixth digit to the zero yet.

There is a 1970 k frame with the reproduction plate welded on already, listed on Craigslist in Grand Blanc Michigan. He's asking $400. Like someone else said, shipping can be a deal breaker. For somebody to buy something big and heavy, I would recommend using Fastenal. They ship store to store...

It's from a 1973 e-body. The three at the beginning is the year, and the b is hamtramck assembly.

I am not in the market, but that is a steal. Limited slip third members, are generally 750 to 900 that I have seen.

You should have probably pm'd him. I don't think you're supposed to post your personal contact. Just sort of for your personal protection thing.

They saved a lot, because 1970 they had to have a different dash for barracuda and Challenger. When they changed it for 71, the dash was identical and they just had to put the corresponding sticker on that black plastic name plate.

The difference is the housing the switches go in. With the standard gauges it has that corner clipped off. I believe the actual switches themselves are the same though. Not 100% sure, but you could probably order for the rally dash, that way you would have the proper housing for once you do...

I've never done a rimblow switch myself, but I know they aren't easy. I was a mechanic for a Chrysler dealer in the mid 70s. Only one mechanic there would even do them. I think his failure rate was about 20%. You don't know until you reinstall and the horn blows itself.

Just my two cents, but having your old crank reworked is probably half the price of buying a brand new crank. If it's a 1973 it's a cast crank. I would spend the money and upgrade to a forged. Your cast crank is externally balanced, so make sure you get the appropriate one, or you would have to...

Your lines that you say are your old ones have definitely been replaced before. Those are not factory bends.

I can't believe working years as a mechanic in a Chrysler dealership, I never saw a distributor with an electric advance control. Are these California cars or something?

That is great info, that the tolerances are now what they should have always been. Somebody had a matched set listed for four times the price, just because they were matched set.

It's been a lot of years, and of course I can't remember all of it, but as a retired Chrysler mechanic in the seventies, it's electric choke. There is nothing electric on any vacuum advance. I never cared what the box was for, I always assumed it was just some sort of resistor to slow the...