Recent content by Litchkar

I had mine rebuilt by a local shop and a half leaf added. Be careful of places that will Re-arch yours, the spring will return to its factory arch over time.

I had my oil pan off my 340 numerous times, should be no different on a 318. Drop the steering center link on both sides. Front bolts are tricky, bit doable with a universal adapter. I haven’t ever lifted the motor.

in the mid 80’s, the Dakota used a mini starter that is a high torque and bolts right in. Easy to find at major auto stores.

this will cause some feedback, but 489 cases used a crush sleeve instead of shims to set lash. Re-installing the nut and yoke after changing the seal can cause a change in pinion preload. This causes a whinny noise when you take your foot off the gas. I experienced this when I bought a used...

There are a lot of you tube video available. I recommend Dr.Diff for the replacement parts. If you do a tear down, definitely hog out the old outer bearing since it might take multiple tries to get the correct drag. If a tear down is done, you need to adjust the ring free play during reassembly...

Castro GTX Classic is a high zinc oil designed for muscle car motors. Check it out

Is it available? Does that price local only or shipped?

I upgraded my rear to led without changing the flasher. I did get the highest wattage bulbs, ie brightest ones I could find. Maybe that is why I didn’t need to change the flasher

I see you are new to the site, being knowledgeable is great, but insulting fellow members is not cool. People use this forum to ask and answer questions, not be belittled. Grow up and show some respect.

While it’s apart, I would install a new 180 degree thermostat, someone may have put a 195 in it before you bought it.

Compression is low in number 1, should not vary more than 15% between adjoining cylinders. I would test another carb. Engine is tired, but that probably isn’t causing the idle issues.

My experience, the 0 at the keyway designates 0 degrees, then line up the 0 on the sprocket to the cam gear. Same method for the R -retarded, and A for advanced. 3 key way slots, 3 timing marks depending on what your goal is.

Yes, most are Chinese junk, most people carry spares with them, along with spare voltage regulator and electronic module. Not like the old days when parts lasted forever.

I replaced mine with thin wire rope 3/32” I think and metal crush sleeves from Home Depot. Cost less than 10.00 to do both seats. Both tracks should engage and disengage when you move the lever.

I have a SB 340 with a leaky rear main. Can this be changed with engine in place without dropping the crank.