Recent content by Litchkar

I did this on my 371 Stroker with a Vintage air system. I tapped off the compressor power lead. Works great, but sometimes I have to bump the throttle to get it to engage. The solenoids are not strong enough to push the linkage to raise the rpm’s, they extend and lock open to prevent the linkage...

I went ahead and pulled the thermostat; it was marked as a 180 degree. When i put in hot water, it started to open at 180 and popped fully open at 185 degrees. I bought a 195-degree unit at Advance Auto, (in stock for 9.49). The gauge moved higher, and the Infared thermostat read 183 degrees on...

I built the motor, it is a 180 thermostat, has always run on the cold side, been together a few years now.

I know most members have the opposite problem, so, what is the best solution to get it up? Engine block is cooler than that.

Hello everyone, I had my Challenger out for a drive today on a nice 70 degree day, Like always, the temp gauge reads on the low end of the non-rally gauge. When I got home, I checked it with an Infared thermometer, it read 170 degrees. I checked the rad, thermostat and upper and lower hoses...

So… my Bluetooth started breaking up like the radio. Not wanting to drop close to 100 on an alternator right now. Took the chance and ordered the above filter on Amazon. Spliced it into the acc power lead and no improvement. Decided to try the always hot side (for the presets) and the problem...

as the owner of a '71 drop top, this is soul crushing 🧐

Would an in-line noise filter help?

Good call, removing the belt eliminates the noise. So how do I fix that?

I need help with a frustrating issue. My Retro Sound radio has static as if it is cutting out with the engine running. No issue with the engine off. No issue when streaming thru Bluetooth. I added another ground to the head unit, but no better. Changed dist. Cap and rotor too. Even ran a...

I am running a Firm Feel stage 3 on my 71 Challenger, got rid of all the sloppiness and I can still turn it easily with one hand. Graveyard Cars has Firm Feel rebuild all of their steering boxes to Stage 2 specs.

Chryco is right, the major auto parts chains carry many premade lengths, also they loan flair tools if you need to cut and flair a length.

if this helps, I have 3.23 with 37” tall tires. At 60 mph, it is running approximately 2,800 rpms. Running a 727 torque flight.

Whatever you decide on the leafs, get rid of the springs on the shocks. The upper attachment metal was not designed to carry the weight of the back end, that is the job of the leaf springs.

Multiple brake cylinder swaps, self adjuster is disabled. The only isolated area is from wheel to TEE ( already had blown it out) on the diff. I can’t find info about if Wilwood M/C has an internal residual valve. Like I stated, the one wheel locks and will not release w/o opening bleeder...