Recent content by Russ Furchner

I'm looking to buy a solid outboard carb (4789 or 4790) for my T/A. I really only need the throttle plate, but will by happy to buy the entire thing. Will consider any 6-pack carb just to have the spare.

That is the next step. I need to decide if I want to do get into that this winter or not, and how far to go.

I'm curious if anybody else has run into this before. 1970 T/A, original 340 6 pack, 80k miles. When I got the car, there were lots of noises, issues I've been working to resolve. Rocker arms and shafts rebuilt, new lifters, pushrods, fuel pump, water pump, clutch, starter, exhaust...

I am looking for rocker arms for my T/A. I will take a full set including shafts, or the individual rockers. Looking for minimal wear, good condition.

I just replaced my rear interior panels and package tray just this past weekend. The rear panels were on-top. The rear panels fit, but are a bit wider than the originals, mine look similar to yours, I did force it into the corners more so there is less overlap. Looks like we got them from the...

It runs better than before and no noise from the valvetrain. I'm pretty sure that while the intake did not seal perfectly, it was the metering block that was the problem all along. There was only one lifter making noise and only under certain conditions, I just did not want a failure where...

I know the rebuild kits and the fuel valves were for modern fuels, but since I ordered them from the same guy that spec'd the metering block, I'm going to check again. You are not talking about the vacuum pods on the outboards are you?

It took quite a while on the phone with Comp Cams to get that right. Most people don't understand the T/A engines are different in some areas, they stop listening past 340.

It was frustrating, I believe the main issue was the metering block. I'll post a picture of it if I can get the right resolution, I think the person I worked with at Holley just sent me the wrong part. Too many things did not look right, it would be interesting to get other opinions on the...

Thank you for the offer. I do want to restore the vacuum advance at some point. Why it was deleted in the first place is still a mystery.

Update: Installed the new intake gaskets, did not use the cork end pieces, just black silicone. Old metering block, new jets and restored the power valve. Runs great and no lifter noise. Job done.

No, I did not. I'm going to get everything sealed properly and deal with center carb. If that does not resolve it, I may revisit this. I very comfortable I set up the valve train correctly, I've done that before on this engine with no issues. New parts should not change that, I was very...

Exactly.

Yes, it ran well. The power valve delete made it run too rich and the lifter noise bugged me, but it ran well.

I meant at the ends of the intake manifold in place of cork.