Recent content by Spyder

I'm sure I'll be perfectly happy with it. I'll need to get a new torque converter once I get the bugs worked out, this old Hughes 2k that was in the car when it had the old 440 won't cut it I'm sure, but it's what I had available when I ran out of money. :D

Trip to the gas station went well but I totally forgot to take a picture there. I'll get the grill and headlights back in next. Temp outside is 97, and it stayed at 180 until I did a couple of hard pulls then idled into my driveway and it went to 200. Not worried about that at all. I'll have...

Went out for a little longer drive today and all is still well. A little timing and A/F tuning and it runs better than the first short trip. Bolted the bumper back up, and plan on doing another longer shakedown run tomorrow. I had misadjusted the shifter linkage, setting it up while in park...

First drive on the road was a success! Letting it cool down now to drain the oil and cut open the filter for a look-see. Sounds good, pulled hard for the half to three quarter throttle I was doing and then letting it slow down for ring seating, and looks fantastic going down the road. Now all...

Swap to manual successful, mostly. Finally got a day off work and bolted it up today. Bench bled the master, bled all four corners, pedal feels good when the engine is off so I took it out for its first ever drive with the new motor. They stop, but they're wayyyy too soft so I'll need to do...

Crawl under and see if the little metal tag is still attached to a third member bolt. Mine was on my '72, and it was a 2.76 Last summer I swapped to a 3.55 sure grip from Dr. Diff and now I'm half thinking I want to go back to 3.23 or 2.76 or something in between, since the new motor will have...

Double swing linkage appears to be my problem. Will remove it and bolt rod to pedal then should be in business. I've hears a couple people say they don't like this booster setup. I haven't had problems until now, but considering cost, I'll probably go Bendix style when I go back to power. Thanks!

What am I not seeing here? Manual length rod is both way too long to be able to mount the master, and too wide to fit in the slot on the pedal assembly. I'm confused and very frustrated as this was my last weekend to work on this for a while.

Buddy of mine burnt his brand new restored '51 Chevy truck to the ground when he had a fuel line leak that ignited, and even when he got the engine shut down the fuel pump under the hood kept pouring gas into the flames. I need to do an electric pump near the tank on my car but it's going to...

Maybe not. The rod is way too long and eyelet way too thick to fit into the pedal mechanism. No more tonight, will have to try again tomorrow.

Will need to fab a firewall patch, makenlonger brake lines to reach the master, and pull master off to bench bleed it, but I think this'll get me on the road the best.

That... looks like it shouldn't be like that. Dangitt.

Yep that makes sense. I have it apart in the shop I'll get out later today and tinker more. I definitely think I just did something wrong putting it back together and reinstalling it.

Master and wheel cylinders all check out fine. I don't really want to run the engine much until I can get out and drive it, brand new engine and rings aren't seated yet. Checked vacuum today and it pulls 16", booster seems to hold it fine, and check valve suck blow test worked fine. I don't see...

I bought a temp one from Summit, the Right Stuff booster and master combo, and hate it. Don't think I'm going to use it, and considering just going manual for now until I can figure out a rebuild for my booster. If I stick a 15/16" master for disc/drum on the firewall, and buy an adjustable...