Recent content by Titan1969

Build sheet states SMTH

Second trip out after adding +4 oz (8oz total) Friction Modifier did not seem to change any symptoms. So I decided to give it a more aggressive drive. WOW the 3.91 made a big difference for my stock 340 setup, even catch a "chirp" from 2nd to 3rd at WOT with stock 727 trans. I may just need to...

Here is the unit I purchased. I added more friction modifier and will take it for a longer drive this weekend and report back. Yukon Dropout Assembly, Chrysler 8.75” Diff 489 Case w/Sure-Grip LSD, 3.91 Ratio

I spoke with Yukon and here was there feedback. I only have about 10 miles on the new diff, so it may need more breakin time. Im also going to add +4 oz Mopar Friction modifier before my next drive and Ill report back. __________________________________________ We offer the OEM style HD Sure...

cant find a way to upload 20meg video, so Ill report back what Yukon suggests.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I purchased a new Yukon SG 3.91 case 489 for my 73 Cuda and removed the peg leg 3.23. I have swapped diffs many times and never encountered an issue, except this time. Install went fine no issues, I 2x checked end play, added Valvoline 80/90 gear oil and...

ok thx. Ill pickup the Yukon complete diff with SG and 3.91, then its an easy swap.

Thanks in advance. I have a stock '73 340 with open diff 3.23. Im going to 3.91's to give it more bottom end. I wont mind the high revs, its a street car very little highway time. Will a suregrip be needed with 3.91's or with a stock 340, is a sure grip really overkill and I should just swap the...

Thanks in advance. I want to refresh the white highlight paint that shows off the selections (high, low, off, etc) that has faded on my heater control panel. What paint is used for this? I might try a bright white touch up paint from local auto store or model paint, so long as it has a small...

Thanks for the feedback. The new wiring has no bulkhead connectors, unlike the factory wiring harness. The bulkhead is where I use to find the issues with melted wiring. Your right in regards to full power going into the car, however this must pass through a fusible in the engine bay first, so...

Just dropping a note due to a problem I averted that may help others. My 73 Cuda was rewired by a resto shop and the ammeter never worked when I received the car back, despite paying for a new ammeter. 4 years later I finally decided to tear dash apart and find the issue. First I noticed the...

Circling back to say thank you to those who responded. I pulled gauge cluster out and found the resto shop 1) mis-wired the hot side to the lighting circuit and 2) the switch side to the Tach line :( . Rewired correctly and all is right with the world.

thx in advance. I replaced the parking brake cables and all is working great. I am trying to determine what color wire connects to the Parking Brake assembly switch (it was not connected prior to my repairs). I checked my factory manual but only find the wiring color codes for the engine bay...

thx for this. Ill trace the wires from amp meter back to alternator. Maybe the resto shop did not wire the amp meter to correct wires. Maybe just to a 12 volt line and not amp line.

on other Mopars I have owned (73 Challenger, 74 Duster) when I turn headlights on for example, the guage would jump up to charge then settle back to center. My Cuda does not. Also when I crank the car a few times (after its sat for a few weeks) on my past Mopars the gauge would rise up to 1/3...