Recent content by Xcudame

Thanks @Bret Schneider, the cat is out of the bag. I am an engineer. And back in the 50s, 60s and 70s Chrysler had some of the best engineers out there (think Ramchargers)! 😀 They tried hard to build the most bullet proof cars out there fighting the bean counters all the way!

There was a gentleman that had a video where he unpacked a housing that would bolt to a big block and had previsions to bolt on the factory overdrive tail shaft. He was evaluating the housing and going to install the internals and give another report. I was looking to follow up as I get...

Yes, that's what I'm currently building (using #92457) and it did come with grade 8 bolts which I swapped out with grade 9 (even stronger). By the way, grade 9 5/16" bolts are stronger than the grade 5 3/8" bolts holding the bellhousing to the block! Theoretically a one piece design should be...

@Bret Schneider, good point, the ECU was always isolated from vibration and the factory bracket was obviously to help with any heat transfer. But I have seen the newer Chinese ECUs have the resin that encapsulates the electronics melt out sitting on the self! Of course it gets pretty dang out...

For 80 years every other country has charged the USA tariffs and other taxes and it was good for them. Now the USA has started charging tariffs and it's some how bad? We're the biggest consumers in the world because even with all our faults, the USA is the freeist country and we are allowed to...

all one piece, that would be better!

OK, I'm losing my memory! I remember I guy posting a thread on a new aluminum bellhousing/case to bolt a 46rh/A518 to a big block. It had to be here on FEBO or on FCBO because those are the only two websites I belong to? Does anyone remember this? I wanted to follow up and see how it worked out...

I posted the link to Mancini's "in house" ECU. They sale Mopar Orange Boxes as well. On my 70 Challenger, I have an MSD 6A bought in the 90s when they were still made in the USA and not China! Hi-6 and Rev-N-Ator are good too!

And those are straight as an arrow, or so I thought!

Yes, you need black out paint on the front radiator yoke. To describe how to spray it on, some poor sap stood in a pit under the car and sprayed it up at a 45° angle! I sure hope he was paid well or his co-workers at least bought him a beer now and then after work!

OK, I'm confused. Where is this actually going from and to? I ask because every rod linkage I've seen had a "pin" on at least one end. Yours has two holes.

See the ECU from Mancini below. I know they will stand behind their products. Get the standoff plate too and mount it on the firewall like the 72-74 E-Bodies. Won't be hidden, but won't give you problems either! https://www.manciniracing.com/maraorigcoun.html...

Assuming no one has replaced them with something else, yes, they would be 15/16".

Unfortunately it's almost all made over seas these days. 🙁 My suggestion is getting the parts at a local parts store (O'Reilly's, AutoZone, NAPA, etc.) so if you have any issues, you can return them in person. Or you can buy from RockAuto and stick with brands like Centric and Raybestos for...

Or this one on eBay. Rick isn't going to sale crap. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325897152833?gQT=2