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Got to thinking about how much they would cost. It appears TTI doesn't offer them in stainless. I got satin finish ceramic coated. They were no where near the $800 mark they are today, so stainless, if you can find them, probably are in the $1500+ range.

By the way, even ceramic coated headers rust, just more slowly. I suggest trying stainless steel if you can spring for it.

If the carb return spring is anchored too high, it won't pull all the way to idle. I had an Edelbrock with this problem. I drilled a hole, lower on the spring anchor, that fixed it.

No real muscle on my car, but I swapped out long tube headers for TTI shorties. Watch the first few minutes of this ...https://youtu.be/r2uteNbz3S0

Don't know why, but I can't see your images.

My next step would be... Use temporary, external jumper wires to wire it up in the car, run them all the way back to power and ground, eliminating all original wiring. Like "AUSTA" suggested, sounds like a high resistance open in the wire.

Units can wear out in the middle of the resistor scale.Keep the tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full and that's where it wares out first.

Installing a prefabbed exhaust system, Jack stands are high enough but still tight. Any of the suggestions that will get you a few more inches of height will be better. I'm an older man so crawling under and out again repeatedly was more of an issue for me.

Headliner supports ratteling maybe?

I pulled the pocket out to read the embossed information on the side. On the left side: AH-C H-846 On the right side: 77299. SO4 POCKET RADIO PANEL HONDA. PP-T< On the back a paper tag. It...

How about this? It's a dash pocket from a Honda. If you're interested I'll get my more agile grandson to crawl under and see if there is a part number on it.

I bought ceramic coated headers from TTI, and they rusted too. Stainless will discolor, but I think that's the way I'll go from now on.

There is an episode of "Graveyard Cars" where Mark, argues against the need for subframe connector on convertible E Bodies. I don't know which episode but I'm sure you can find it on the Motortrend channel. This link, is to a clip from the show.

I have a 318 I'm my 72 Barracuda. I rebuilt it 20 years ago based on articles from Mopar Muscle, Mopar Action, and Hot Rod magazines. These articles were written before the plethora of aftermarket parts were available. If you'd like I can send you PDF copies of the articles. You may find them...

Pictures need a size reference, but the clip looks like it could possibly be the retaining clip for a torsion bar. The trans dipstick on my 72, 318 has a brace bolted to the engine.

When I rebuilt the engine in my 72 Barracuda, I had plans to later restore and repaint the car. I had not decided on a new color for the car so I painter the engine bay Dove Gray. That way what ever color I chose would not clash.

I assume you mean a rough idle when you say a vibration. You should check horizontal play in the distributor shaft. If the shaft bearings are bad , I know from experience that will cause rough idle.

Summers seem to be hotter than they were in 1972. Traffic is heavier, with a lot of stop and go, and stop and "wait." I decided it would be a good idea to install a transmission cooler. I have completed the install and now would like to install a trans temp gauge. It's a 318 w/ 904. I've heard...

I put a mini starter on my 72 318 hoping the long tube headers could be removed mor easily. The starter works great but I still had to remove the starter to remove the header.

Ive never done this from scratch before. Ive always had different combinations of wheels to test with. On the front, try a stright edge across the mounting surface. Measure from it to the sreering arm and any other suspension or break part that might drag the steel wheel. I would then subtract...