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I'm ready to reinstall my rebuilt steering column and want to know the best way to secure the end of the lockout tube, as I do not have the linkage and I don't want it able to move. Besides zip-ties, is there a better way to keep it in place?

I have the original 1970 Steering box and shaft. The Pitman arm I purchased was the "exact fit". I will check the trans mount bushings for sure. Thanks!

Thanks! I believe the washer would have to go between the pitman arm and nut- as the steering box shaft is splined.

I recently replaced my front suspension components. Control arms, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, idler and pitman arms... I am under the impression that there is either a washer or shim/ spacer that prevents binding or over-tightening. I'm almost certain this is the source of the tightness and...

Since I do not have the interlock linkage installed, and will be removing the spring catch in the key assembly, can I delete the interlock tube? The metal bearing assembly I bought fits nicely and looks much better built than the white plastic bearing available. The O-ring had disintegrated a...

I'm in the process of removing my column to do a refresh/ rebuild and replace all the internals and bearings- but we are having a baad time getting the main pin out of the coupler to disengage it. Ideas? I'm probably going to replace the coupler (all internals). If we can't get the pin out...

Do you know which of these would fit the 1970 E Body with floor shift auto?

I finally was able to get all my steering components replaced that needed to be. Had an alignment done and the care seems to drive "very tight". I was told that sometimes, newly installed components take time to "loosen up or break in", which results in steering returning to normal. I've...

Picked it up from Classic Industries. (Hopefully no chop suey)

Actually, I replaced the Pittman arm first (at the steering box)- and the issue began after that. I will check for the sleeve, if it is over-tightend- and if it might be off by a tooth or two. Thanks!

No, nothing above was touched.

I replaced the Pittman arm first. The steering stiffness occurred after it was swapped out. The shocks and idler arm were replaced a week later- and the idler arm was definitely shot, although it did not affect the steering prior to being replaced. I guess I can check the Pittman- as it could be...

For sure. Took the gun to all of the fittings. :)

Definitely doing that! Thanks.

Thanks! Yes, the wheels appear to sit normally and everything seems to move without anything hitting. There seems to be no issue when turning the wheels whilst off the ground. I know you really can't overtighten the castle nuts, as they have stops.

Happy New Year Everyone! I'm having issues with the steering on my E-Body after replacing worn suspension parts. I replaced the following: Upper/ Lower Ball Joints Inner/ Outer Tie Rod Ends Idler Arm and Pittman Arm Inner/ Outer Wheel Bearings Front Shocks The steering used to freely return...

I did a starter upgrade several years ago to the smaller hi-torque style starter for my Challenger and have noticed that the oil pressure on my aftermarket gauge seems to be high- 70-80psi for about 10 minutes and then settles down to between 40-60psi. I was initially "told" to start the car...

It's always been a floor shift. Everything seems secure and connected.

I can turn the key forward to start, and back to turn off, but not all the way to allow the key to release.

I noticed my ignition key was not smoothly going in and out of the ignition, so I applied some graphite and it seemed to solve the issue. A few days ago, I drove the car and when I went to shut it off, the key would not return to the release position. The assembly is stuck one position forward-...