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I guess I'm the odd ball, I installed green bearings way back in 2000 and sofar so good I guess, once I found out they can't handle side loads I no longer do donuts...lol, never seen a track, street only

I used a engine leveler and dropped it in from the top, minus headers, couple of blankets on the inner fenders to keep the paint save. Always wanted to try from the bottom but haven't yet

What's your backspacing on those 15x10 and how close are the tire sidewalls to the leafspring (at the back of the tire)? Also what size tires are your fronts? I'm thinking (eventually) I will have to go down to a 10" wide rim & a 28" tall tire, currently got a 12" wide rim & 29" tall tire...

The differences are all on the underside

Don't let the diff get to hot or it will warp, especially if your not using a jig, Control your heat that's going into the housing. You could do small welds, opposite corners with cool down time in-between welds. If you have a variety of welding machines too choose from then I would use a tig

For what its worth; my 383 is angled down 3°, minimum u-joint angle is 0.5° and max is either 3° or 3.5°

Just gonna say: What do you guys consider good vacuum if 17inhg isn't enough? I got 6inhg and yes it's a long duration cam, and I use my idle adjustment screws to set idle vacuum, and idle speed screw to set idle rpm. But anyway, lots of good suggestions that I would tackle first, read up on...

I have never understood why it seems like 8 3/4s don't get along with manual transmission's. Does a clutch just shock the drivetrain that much more then a high stall converter?

In drag racing some people will switch from the 8 3/4 to a Dana. The weak link in the 8 3/4 seems to be the location/relationship of the pinion/rearend gear. On a good launch (lots of torque/traction) the pinion will try to climb the ring gear causing the diff to flex @ the pumpkin, breaking...

If you find a steel space saver then those should work. These rims are not very wide (roughly 5") so you shouldn't have any issues. I would bring a tape measure & check bs to be sure, 4 to 4.5" bs will work. Most of us are used to backspacing, not rim offset. Also Factory aluminum rims are too...

Most of today's cars have too much positive offset. A 7" wide rim would need 0 offset for 4"bs, or +12 for 4.5"bs. If your just after a donut/spare then that "should" be easier to find if you can find one. The problems I ran into is a lot of cars come with a full size spare (too much positive...

Check out my post (and the comments) in 'tires and rims' FYI: Cars with 5x4.5 or 5x114.3 & 71.6 cb These are all vehicles that that have the same bolt spacing & cb as our challengers. I did find a company that makes spare tire rims but they want $400

I forget about the LA's but the B & RB's ran (4 groove crank pully) 2 belts from crank-alt-a/c, 1 belt from crank to ps, and 1 belt from crank to idler pully to waterpump. If I were you I'd run a second belt on your ac just incase that belt is slipping, after all you have belt grooves for a...

Just gonna put this out there: you could install line-lock on the front brakes using a toggle switch. Activate the line lock and just step on the brake peddal, just enough to get the car to start slowing down, then hammer on the gas. Once your satisfied with your burnout just turn the linelock...

Here is my fan

My notes say I have a 16” Electric fan SUM-381008-3 I just checked summit and it is not popping up. I would just get something in the 2000cfm range. Also for me, just the electric fan did not do the job, i am guessing due to the "extra gaps" I have so the air isn't forced thru the rad

Thanks for the tip, I'll keep a eye out on my local buy & sell

If you just wanna spin the tires then go 3.91's, but if it used to spin and now it doesn't then I would check things over. A higher stall converter might fix your problem (that made a huge difference for me), did your kickdown lingage go out of adjustment? Timing out-to-lunch ?

I used to run a solid fan and have since switched to a clutch fan with a elect. pusher upfront. I find the electric pusher does a great job in bumper to bumper trafic or long idleing periods. My fiberglass hood does not touch my upper rad support at all (allmost a 2 inch gab). I would love a...

You will need a flasher that uses a ground for your hazzard/signel lights to work. Either use a flasher that has a ground pigtail or get a 3 prong flasher and install the ground wire to one of the prongs (easy to figure out which one is for the ground). I believe you need 2 flasher's