The brush assemblies have to be removed before disassembling and/or reassembling the case halves, you will need new brushes. Looks like you reassembled it with the brushes in place, are now damaged, needing replacement.
Yes, Tuff Stuff is good, run them as well. You’ve had it apart then? Once more, you removed the green field wire and grounded the terminal to the alternator case? Disconnect both field wires, check for continuity between the two field terminals. Make sure there is no continuity between either...
Did you perform a full field test? Disconnect the green field wire from the alternator and ground the terminal, make sure there is battery voltage on the blue field wire with the key on, is there higher than battery voltage at the alternator output stud while running with a full 12 volts applied...
Sounds like a full field test is the next order of business. Remove the green field wire from the alternator and ground the terminal, see what the resulting output voltage is. Be sure there is battery voltage present on the other field terminal (blue wire).
Be really careful with those mentioned...
There’s been some recent renewed discussions circulating lately about the “Shunt wire”, or under-hood direct battery to alternator, by-pass for the original Chrysler charging system. More claims of a simple fix that makes the stock charging system and related wiring/components safer by having...
To be clear, an all-stock 60amp charging system from this time would have a “Fleet By-pass” from the factory. A bulkhead by-pass, no charge path Packard’s at the bulkhead connector. I’m a “as designed” proponent but the bulkhead charge path Packard’s are, and have always been, the weakest link...
Keep in mind that described “engine bay by-pass”, performed as most folks promoting it suggest, exposes all the factory unfused wiring to more than double the current potential on the event of a short thanks to Ohm’s law as applied to parallel circuits. Connect the added loads on the alternator...
Maybe it has been mentioned here already I didn’t see. The only way to do voltage drop tests accurately is with some current flowing. Need to take these measurements with the engine running and some loads turned on. Static or engine off results will not necessarily reflect correct high...
Not a fan of these conversions, at least a pristine E-body Rallye cluster ammeter wasn’t cannibalized for another one of these voltmeter conversions. Did that ammeter find a good home? Would have liked to have had one like that for my current E-body project.
Wasn’t specifically addressing what you have done.
There are weak spots in this original design, Packard terminals used in the charge path at the bulkhead connector being the weakest link by far. Then again nothing about these cars were designed to still be around 50+ years later.
BtW, When I...
By far, the most “pushed” by-pass option I see is a “under-hood” or “engine compartment” straight alternator to battery add-on by-pass using large diameter cables. No other changes to the stock charging system. Promoted as removing current stress from all stock wiring and connections. With or...
Heat is the result of current and resistance. If you maintain your current and resistance below their accepted design limits for this system, there won’t be any heat. You describe wires melting, as original, 12 ga charging system wiring melting is an indication of excessive current for that...
Is that a fact? What back-up do for have a statement like that? With correctly maintained connections, correct load placement, and operated within its design limits, ammeters and/or their connections don’t fail. Voltmeters alone don’t tell the whole story, may as well run a charge/no-charge...
Are you sure that aftermarket wiring has not by-passed the ammeter altogether or has been by-passed in the engine compartment? Wired and loaded correctly, fully charged battery, there should be little to no current flowing through the ammeter while the engine is running. What are you expecting...
While FSMs are the most complete and accurate source of technical information for these cars, they still contain some flaws and omissions. Some diagrams have that labeling reversed. Dark blue with a trace is in fact ignition 1, power in the run only position. Brown is ignition 2, the ballast...