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I did the entire interior of the car with Por15 and the underside of the body (with black). There will be zero rust for the next 50 plus years. But trying to over paint this stuff is really tough, but for me, unnecessary.

If you are talking about under-body, suspension components, or other areas "covered up", I would suggest you look into Por15. They have a few colors to choose from. Just remove dirt and grease. It works best when you just paint right over the rust. If you are talking about the actual exposed...

Yes, flat black is a better option IMO.

What about "No more words" didn't you understand. LOL. Just kiddin', just kiddin'. I had to go there......Cheers!

I went to a couple and they had similar, but not ones that "bottomed out" appropriately.

Thanks again. I decided to order one that's for outside & inside use that is lockable. I assume "lockable" so it doesn't blow away, cause that won't stop anyone from taking off with it after some quick bolt cutter action.

Thank you. I will check it out.

My 73 Challenger stays in the garage and has been covered with a car cover that served me well (don't know what brand) to keep the dust off it while parked. It is time to replace it. Any recommendations? This is only for inside protection, never outside.

Missing one of the nuts that secure the Challenger emblem on the front grille. Anyone know where I can pick one up?

My personal experience with Just Dashes was that I sent them a core and they did their thing and made it PERFECT. Took about 6 months for the turn around. Dropped some serious coinage, but was very happy. Good fitment was a given, because I sent them mine, so I can't comment on a complete...

You can try using JB Weld to secure a new stud. I've had success using it in similar situations. Create a rough, clean surface for best adhesion.

Has anything went down or stayed the same price wise in CA lately? One reason I left Sac and moved to Idaho. Try State Farm. They actually have an acceptable premium. Mine is $255 per year based on a vehicle value of $40,000. Good luck.

No worries. Everyone is telling me go FI, but I really want to get a TQ to work and all this will help me in this process also. Cheers - John (real name). For all of you that didn't know, I took that name because I am always the first one up making coffee. Cheers again.

I have two TQ's. One is a 6166S for a 1972 400 Automatic (currently on my car) and the other is a 6321S for a 73 400 HP automatic that has the altitude compensating diaphragm for the vacuum advance. I have a chance to pick up another "parts" carb that is a 9096 which came out of a 1977 440 truck...

Looks great! Beautiful work.

Same setup. And as I understand it, these are very desirable.

Five years down the road after you got it where you want it, the bad taste of the original price given by this DB will be forgotten. You will be enjoying a sweet ride. Congratulations on what looks like an amazing hot rod.

Great introduction, thanks for that! Looks like overall you got a really good car. And I do not care if she's across the pond. Seems like she will be taken care of and that's all the matters. Cheers!

Good morning neighbor. Welcome to the show.

A 700cfm carb (or a little more cfm - I was always told to double the displacement of the engine to determine a good start point for cfm of the carb), 10.5 pistons (from early year 340), a little head and intake work on the ports, headers, a proper camshaft for either a stick or automatic...