I wouldn't think the Abody rods to be the same length as the Ebody due to the shift adapter bosses on the trans are further back.
However, there's this for the VGII....
https://www.shifterdoc.com/Hurst_3738180_Installation_Instuctions.PDF
1 (minimum) to 1-1/2 times the bolt diameter protrusion is typical.
Should not take that long.
What does your mechanical oil pressure gauge read with the prime?
FWIW, If you're going from the top with an assembly, pull the distributor.
Another option is to raise the rear of the car to cut some of the assembled angle.
On a big block, a deep oil pan may cause an assembly to be tight between the firewall and K-member.
I'm no body guy but I'll cite an observation from your OP picture.
Maybe it's a clue or no help at all but it appears your passenger side fender may be further forward than the driver side............
Same on '71 but omits "-3-2 bbl." wording.
If it helps, this is the 6 quart pan dimensions. Is this what you have?
If yes, IMO, just run 6-1/2 quarts, remark the stick and drive the wheels off it!:steering:
Some good reference in these for beginners....
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/8th-edition-mopar-engines-book.309730/
Manual downloads here.......
https://mymopar.com/chrysler-master-tech-service-library-browse-model-year/
I wouldn't use that pickup as is. Bending the bottom to conform might breach the screen and allow too large of particle into the pump and lock it up.
I might try bending the tube a bit out of the engine. I'm not suggesting you try that though.
Maybe someone else has dealt with this and will...
Yikes, that's a bunch off level. Is that a straight tube pickup?
You might consider a different pickup......
https://www.manciniracing.com/mara402oilpa.html