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You can practically build an e-body out of a catalog these days just like with a Ford or Chevy, it will cost you more but at least parts are readily available. Classic Industries Year One Mancini Racing Roseville Moparts Legendary Auto Interiors MegaParts USA Detroit Muscle Technologies Many...

Definitely look no further than Performance Car Graphics then. The best there is, period.

Performance Car Graphics. But I'm pretty sure they only have the 4-hole switch panels left for cars with either rear defog or convertibles. I think the 3-hole panels are all sold out.

@ Lunchbox, yes & they did a really nice job. I think they originally estimated around 6 weeks for turnaround but I got them back in like 4 or 5. Haven't put the dash in the car yet but based on what I've seen so far I'd definitely recommend them.

That 18268 (and the patent numbers) will appear on other Bendix boosters as well, not just the hard to find 70 E booster. I believe 18268 is Bendix's vendor code for Chrysler. The 70 E booster should have 8550 on it, that is one sure way to ID it. And the football shaped indent around the...

Hard to find part for the 70-71 cars with the hardboard headliner & overhead console. $60 shipped to the continental US. ***SALE PENDING RECEIPT OF FUNDS***

I have a couple of these so I'm following along, and wondering what it looks like apart. Is it just a matter of a new seal or is there more to it than that? Maybe a new seal could be made?

Topher McGinnis - examples below My Work

70-74 Challenger Cuda Barracuda Dash Pad Nuts - CHENUT13 - Vans Auto 3/8"

UNBELIEVABLE score! That's got to be worth over a grand, maybe $1500. I found the listing and saw that the seller has a bunch of other old stock rebuilt master cylinders that they're unloading. I messaged asking if they were sitting on any more of these, but that was the only one they had...

Big block car? On my brother's 70 R/T he added aftermarket fast ratio pitman & idler arms, the only issue was the passenger's side headpipe needed a little tweaking for clearance - I forget if it was just a matter of dinging the headpipe a little or if he took it to an exhaust shop for them to...

Yup with AARs only being built in the second half of the model year they would not have the intermediate valve.

Well, see, it's apparently more of a matter of whether one has an e-body already, or one does not.

This is a Holley 4369 that I had redone at All American, I believe the finish on the body of the carb is what the tail lights should have as well.

I believe they were originally zinc dichromate plated which is also what was used on Holley carb bodies. Best thing to do would be to check with a carb shop, maybe Woodruff from this site or All American Carburetor in Florida and ask what they would charge to dip them for you. Otherwise google...

The build sheet for the car, if any, would be the best way to determine what it came with originally. But it looks like the 2.76 was available as an option with a 383. Probably not very many built...

IMO try to get title as an abandoned vehicle if possible. Found this for Texas- Bonded Title vs Abandoned Title: Which One Do You Need?

I actually bought his headlight relay setup from someone else who didn't use it on their build so I don't have an email address for him, I do know he's on pretty much all of the other forums, ForA, ForB as well as moparts and ebodies.org with the same username.

Lots of good shops out there. Where are you located and how much do you want to spend? As far as what holes belong? All you need to know on that here- E-Body Hole Locations (Firewall, Door, Interior, ect) in Reference Material

In Ohio try Mike Ross at B E & A. Plymouth Restoration Parts, B/E & A Restoration, Mike Ross, New New Stock