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As a result of your 2 replies I re-enabled my uBlock Origin and, son-of-a-gun, it's okay now. I don't get that ad block detected message. Who knows what that was all about the other day, might have even been an issue with uBlock at the time I visited the site. Thanks again Mopar Nut & DetMatt1.

Well this is new and just occurred. When I came here a few minutes ago the site said something like "Ad Block Detected". I had to disable it to get in. I'm using "uBlock Origin". I wonder if it's only that one or if this site recognizes other ones too, like Adblock, etc. Anyone else have to...

1/4 inch gap - no way. In a perfect world it should be flush.

You should post this on e-bodies.org too. I saw that you're a member there too. A lot of the people on Facebook don't go to the e-bodies.org website.

Glad it's sorted out. Depending on it's condition that 4 speed top plate could be desirable.

Yeah, I think it would be ugly. Just my opinion.

Dropping the steering column is pretty easy to do. Loosen the 3 bolts on the floor then spin down the 2 bolts from the studs on the dash frame. Those may or may not have to come completely off for clearance. If it's just for looks I wouldn't bother, especially since you don't have a factory...

That's the whole gauge bezel. To remove it I know the light bar and switch panel have to come off to get to some screws. The steering column probably has to be dropped. I don't know if you can gain access by just removing the radio though. I've removed my rallye dash a few times so it's probably...

The lower half on the drivers side is cut out to accommodate the 4 speed boot, not cut on automatics. Picture from ebay, that company also sells the template.

Yes, if you don't get it all the way down the 3 spoke pad won't go on.

Pull straight up, no twisting needed. It's held on with several spring tabs and very tight. One of the tabs is broken off on mine in the picture. It just presses on the center ring of the actual button (2nd pic)

You have to remove the 3 spoke vinyl trim first. It's held on with 3 Phillips screws in behind. Then you can just pull up on the center button. Edit: that's if we're talking about the same thing.

That I don't know

Yeah, ever since his arrest, then charges dropped, fiasco of 2008 I've stayed away from him. Sorry for the troubles you (and BSG) are having. Hope you get your parts soon. Maybe a little added compensation too for all this bull - but I wouldn't hold my breath on that.

I'd be all over this if it wasn't so expensive to ship to Canada. Still though, I'd be curious what the shipping cost would be to Postal Code: L2P 2T7. Edit: Sorry, I'm going to pass. My excitement got the better of me. It was just going to be a back-up anyway.

Lower cutout is for Barracuda/Cuda Upper is for Challenger

Excellent link Adam, glad that the magnet size was addressed in Reply #3. I had to open up my dash frame too ages ago. Not sure but I think there might be 3 1/2's with smaller magnets out there today.

It looks RT-Eng changed their design from when I put mine in, or you have the wrong one. The top post should be female, you need IVR3, yours looks the B body IVR4 one. If you insist on using it I'd guess the top is 5v output and the bottom is the 12v and leaving the condenser disconnected. I...

Are you missing yours or just want a prettier one. I've repainted those and put a new self-adhesive face label on them.

The bulb I used was white.