Nice solution for the vent. Call it an inspection hole. LOL! For a steering box, I am using the Borgeson. For the exhaust, I found the Holley/Blackheart headers (I began buying stuff several years back and was able to get a set). I did have to slightly dent the Blackheart headers to fit the...
Nice start. I am doing a similar project. With the 8HP70 I had to remove/grind down about 7 tabs on the trans case for clearance in the tunnel. The trans vent with the Holley mounts is right behind the pinch weld in the tunnel. I cut away a couple inches of the pinch weld to run the vent...
Something else to consider here. Those that opt for the Hellcat engine or better, you might want to read your insurance policy. Haggerty has some limitations on horsepower up to 650hp. Not sure what haapens if you have more than that. Likely higher rates or something else. Perhaps other...
Whatever product you decide, insulate the partition between the rear seat and the trunk. This will reduce sound. Then i add some additional carpet pad under the rear seat. The mufflers are right below that so the pad helps with sound there.
Sandblast then epoxy is best. If you're not sandblasting, go over the area with cup brush on a grinder, then I like to apply Rust Bullet. This stuff IMO is better than POR15. It is silver in color, can go over rust, baremetal and painted surfaces and bonds very well. It can be sprayed or...
I am having a hard time picturing this. Is it the nut/bolt part or the egg of the cam? Meaning on the front for max caster the nut/bolt should be closest to the inner fender and the rear adjuster the nut/bolt part closest to the engine? Or do I have this backwards?
Later model OEM wire harnesses use Tesa tape. It has that fabric like tape consistency. Probably not OE correct for the early cars. But its easily found on Amazon.
Look at the old Hotchkis E-Max Challenger and the Chenoweth Challenger. Both of these ride on a relatively stock K-Member and do VERY well at autocross events. Sadly the E-Max is MIA (I think). The aftermarket K members, and those with coil overs, seem to be just another way for you to part...
A 392 with an 8HP70 auto trans (basically out of a 2020 Challenger) will slide into an ebody without modifications done to the tunnel and using the stock K-member. You will need to use the Holley engine/trans mounts which move the engine forward 1-inch. This gives the transmission some room...
I recently saw a video by the guy that does the barn find photos, where Mopar City in Illinois has several e-body consoles in various colors. You might give them a call.
Did you trim away some of the tabs and bosses on the case that are known to interfere? I've seen plenty of pictures of the areas to trim on the 8HP70 (Attached), but not the HP90.
Download the 70 Challenger factory service manual found over at MyMopar.com. Go over the direction of the centerlink and how all the steering parts connect from a factory standpoint. Then look over the Borgeson box and how it mounts. You may need some help from Borgeson on shimming the box.
Everyone says Legendary is the best, but a good upholstry shop should be able to make most anything work well. Has anyone tried PG Classic seat covers or the leather seat covers by Lseat.com?
1970-1974 Dodge Challenger Custom Real Leather Seat Covers (Front)
Seats
The best way to get the younger crowd into these old rides is the Gen3 Hemi route. Maybe it alienates the stock restoration purist. In my opinion, there's value to be had going the modern engine route. The kids dont know, dont care about old school technology anything, especially carbs.
Numbers matching on a 72-74 e-body means very little. I would almost extend that to numbers matching doesnt mean much on any small block e-body outside of the TA/AAR cars. If you're concerned, remove the engine, tuck it away somewhere. Then find another block to build, hit up Blueprint, or go...