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Yes, they are a pain! Glad you got it swapped!

Sounds like normal start up pressure and warm pressure to me. Starter has zero affect on oil pressure. Now if it dropped to single digits after warming up, you've got a problem. So drive your Challenger and enjoy!

Not to still your thread. And thank you for your service: I'm working on 300,000 on my 70 Challenger! I've got less than 50,000 to go! 😀 She smokes a little at start up, she's got a few squeaks and rattles, but she still barks the tires between 1st and 2nd gear. Transmission was rebuilt about...

@Challenger RTA, I agree. Any vehicle that is a true daily driver is going to run decently enough to pass smog. It's just another tax on we the people! I won't even go down the "emission devices" road as once they started putting smog pumps on the cars, I knew it was a scam! Mom had a 75...

Bill, keep us updated please! I think if you can keep them reasonably priced like you estimated, they should sale well. They will work great on all small blocks including the magnum engines!

I use this $20 extension. I even drilled an extra hole in one to use in my 64 Imperial with the rear pump. Maybe it's just because I live in the heat and I'm always wanting to keep things as cool as possible! 😀 https://www.amazon.com/DEF-14010-Filter-Extender-Dodge/dp/B07SRS2QS6

If a bare block is std bore, .020" or .030" oversized, it's probably worth $2-3k. More (double) if it's somebody's matching engine like 72 AAR Cuda mentioned. If it's .060" over and needing to be bored, it's a boat anchor. Even .040" and needing to go to .060", a wise man would have is sonic...

I run the deep pans from RockAuto built by Dorman for the 96+ 46re transmission. That pan has small 1/8" ribs built into the bottom and a drain plug of course.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Going to be a nice looking GTX!

Type F, Dex/merc, ATF +4, Dexron 3, etc. Chryslers three speed automatics are the toughest ever made and will run on just about any automatic transmission fluid! If you don't mind spending a little extra money, I highly recommend getting a deeper pan from a 90's A500/42rh (if 904) or A518/46rh...

When you replace the tail shaft housing, you'll have to remove the two Phillips head screws (just above the red circle in Vannth's photo) to access the big c-clip ring that holds onto the output shaft bearing. It can be spread about with needle nose pliers or a pair of large snap ring pliers...

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Nice Duster 340!

Don, I sure hope you're running aluminum cylinder heads with that 11:1 compression! Either that or race fuel! Make sure once you get the short block built, you use model clay and check the valve clearance! .600" lift is quite a bit! I usually do this without the head gasket and the head bolts...

When I was younger, I used to ocean fish from the shore and used old spark plugs for weights. Don't think I used quite that many though!

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! That's a nice combination of A, B and E-Body cars. Can't wait to see some pictures! I love big block cars!

My 98 Dakota's blue is a perfect match for Miller Lite blue. Always wished I could get some kind of sponsorship! 🙂

I love the beer on the fender Don!!

We really are all missing the obvious! Get out there and drive your E-Bodies! Even if it's only around the block or two! 🙂

Good job using a little of all! 🙂

It wouldn't be horrible if he bought it! And us "old timers" can help a lot! I have some Challenger interior parts that are well used that I could supply for shipping costs @deathproofdodge ! 🙂