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I have a pair from a 70 Challenger. The left one is missing a blade and the right one has a new blade. The keeper for the left wiper is intact. $85.00 shipped. PM me if interested. I think I saw someone is re popping them also if you want new.

When I installed a 6.1 in my 68 Charger back in 2015, I'm pretty sure you just need to tap into one coil pack. I chose # 8 because it was closest. You could contact Chris at Hotwire Auto. He would know for sure.

I too suspect the regulator. I believe the alternator wants to put out around 17 volts constantly. The battery only want about 14 volts. The regulator's job is to do just that. Regulate. Some are adjustable some are not. If your connections are proper as it seems they are, I would try a...

Mega parts sells them with the mounting bolts. You probably won't find a used one cheaper. https://www.ebay.com/itm/187510607787?

That is where the pliers comes in. Saves on the skin as well but as you know, sometimes they have other ideas. Gloves and eye protection is recommended along with an apron.

I found that using my bench grinder with a wire wheel works the best for cleaning corroded bolts. I hold the bolt with a pliers and keep rotating the bolt against the wire wheel.

I have a used one. PM me if still needed.

I have this Auto console plate. A couple small pits in the chrome and needs a new woodgrain applique. PM me if interested

I had a similar squeak I couldn't nail down. I sprayed WD-40 around the area and wiped off the excess. It fixed mine, may work for you.

Sounds like the throw-out bearing to me.

The vapor separator is after the fuel pump. Not before. Here is a pic of the correct layout. Also, not all of those filters with the 1/4" nipple are correct either. Some do not have the small orifice to reduce the fuel going back to the tank. The correct separator has a mounting bracket that...

If you can find a 1980's Aspen or Volare, the complete setup will work for you.

Yes. They are still for sale on this site. Have been there for 4 years. FOR SALE - 70 Challenger SE roof sail panel retainers

If your car didn't have dual exhaust from the factory, there would be no bracket. But....if you look where the bracket would be, you will see 4 center punch marks. That is where the bracket gets bolted on when you add the second exhaust pipe. Those holes will match up with the aftermarket...

There are plenty of things to rattle inside and under any car. If it is a clunk, it is more then likely underneath like exhaust or as someone mentioned a shock. My charger had a rattle I thought was in the deck lid. I finally found it a while back. It was the torsion bars for the deck lid...

That was what I used also. On the inside I used a chrome spray paint because of it's reflectivness.

I'm not an engineer by trade but I do consider myself a "field engineer" meaning I have engineered some fixes for things that didn't work. However, I have to admit I have messed up a few things that were engineered properly that I made to not work properly. A couple things come to mind I know I...

I have to disagree with the last part of your comment. If the oil is black, it is dirty not burnt. I've always been told "Oil never breaks down. It get dirty and contaminated."

If the cruise kicks in but slowly loses speed, the diaphragm is losing vacuum somewhere. If it won't start at all, it could be any number of reasons. Even a brake light out or a bad connection.

This is a Used bumper jack removed from a 74 Challenger that I parted out years ago. It is the base and jack assembly for the bumpers with jacking slots. No lug wrench. Has some surface rust and would be a good candidate for restore. Driver quality as is. $55.00 Free shipping from 54703 to USA...