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There are a lot of you tube video available. I recommend Dr.Diff for the replacement parts. If you do a tear down, definitely hog out the old outer bearing since it might take multiple tries to get the correct drag. If a tear down is done, you need to adjust the ring free play during reassembly...

Castro GTX Classic is a high zinc oil designed for muscle car motors. Check it out

Is it available? Does that price local only or shipped?

I upgraded my rear to led without changing the flasher. I did get the highest wattage bulbs, ie brightest ones I could find. Maybe that is why I didn’t need to change the flasher

I see you are new to the site, being knowledgeable is great, but insulting fellow members is not cool. People use this forum to ask and answer questions, not be belittled. Grow up and show some respect.

While it’s apart, I would install a new 180 degree thermostat, someone may have put a 195 in it before you bought it.

Compression is low in number 1, should not vary more than 15% between adjoining cylinders. I would test another carb. Engine is tired, but that probably isn’t causing the idle issues.

My experience, the 0 at the keyway designates 0 degrees, then line up the 0 on the sprocket to the cam gear. Same method for the R -retarded, and A for advanced. 3 key way slots, 3 timing marks depending on what your goal is.

Yes, most are Chinese junk, most people carry spares with them, along with spare voltage regulator and electronic module. Not like the old days when parts lasted forever.

I replaced mine with thin wire rope 3/32” I think and metal crush sleeves from Home Depot. Cost less than 10.00 to do both seats. Both tracks should engage and disengage when you move the lever.

I have a SB 340 with a leaky rear main. Can this be changed with engine in place without dropping the crank.

if it was my car, I would run 3.55 rear. Best to get 489 case, they have a larger pinion. I run a 3.23 with 15” tall tires, at 65 mph, you would be turning around 1,800 rpm. New challengers use 3.08 rears, but have 20” rims. Use this chart to calculate your rpm vs mph.

I bought kick panels with speakers installed. I also bought a dual channel dash speaker for my convertible. It does get loud with the top down. I would never cut the rear panels, but that’s because I am not a rich man lol.

Yes and yes, reads full but drops quickly to half tank. Takes 5 gallons to fill up to full when it reads half.

Surprise, my fuel gauge drops quickly after 3/4 of a tank. I have changed senders, and adjusted the float. Has anyone tried one of these ohm calibration boxes?

If you look up them on AutoZone website, scroll down in the description and the exact size specs are listed. Timkin uses item numbers such as SET2 and similar.

Classic car wiring.com. Mine was color, laminated, double sided. 8x11”. I recommend the oversized unit, a lot of small lines. Best part is they are made for each model year and which dash style you have. Best tool I ever bought.

I did this on my 371 Stroker with a Vintage air system. I tapped off the compressor power lead. Works great, but sometimes I have to bump the throttle to get it to engage. The solenoids are not strong enough to push the linkage to raise the rpm’s, they extend and lock open to prevent the linkage...

I went ahead and pulled the thermostat; it was marked as a 180 degree. When i put in hot water, it started to open at 180 and popped fully open at 185 degrees. I bought a 195-degree unit at Advance Auto, (in stock for 9.49). The gauge moved higher, and the Infared thermostat read 183 degrees on...