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Grumpyb, thanks! I tried that with the rear carpet section where the seat platform rises up from the floor pans and it worked pretty well. I also put down carpet tape right where the carpet bends upwards, so when I pressed the carpet down it stayed put. I was worried about trying this method...

Terrywalker, thanks for the photos and link. I will use a steamer and as suggested by Pschlosser, a space heater too - I actually have a small electric one I can use to heat the interior. Thanks for these suggestions. MoparCarGuy, the ACC carpet may not be as good as the Classic Industries...

Thanks RonBo73, the steamer sounds like the way to go. Here is photo of the carpet in place, with trim ring and shifter installed. You can see marks where I had weights on the carpet to give it some shape. I had good luck with the back carpet using a heat gun under the carpet to heat up the...

Also, based on that #203 photo from the 1970 FE5 'Cuda Build thread, maybe the carpet is not supposed to be tight all the way down to the floor? It does not look like his is tightened all the way to the floor in that pic. If it is just supposed to flare down gently there, that could be the answer.

Thanks for comments everyone. Avalanche, it is definitely a 4 speed carpet, from ACC. I think the main issue now is it is very cold out and thus the carpet is cold too, so it is stiff. It may go into that "corner pocket" more easily once I warm it thoroughly. Working on how (thanks to...

Thank you. I want to avoid melting fibers also; I did damage a few on the rear carpet before I knew better. I will check out what Harbor Freight has, there is one nearby. I do not have a photo at the moment, but I attached a sketch showing the area I am most concerned about - it is in yellow...

Hi, I am in process of shaping a new ACC front to the floor pan in my Challenger. This is the standard carpet, not the one with the mass backing. The rear carpet is in and sitting nicely. Per discussion on the forum, I used weights and double-sided tape to pin the carpet down, and a soldering...

MoparCarGuy, thanks much for the speedy reply! I did use double sided carpet tape on the vertical surfaces in front of the rear seat, and it worked well. I also used a heat gun on low heat while pulling down on the carpet. Some members have stated that you shouldn't use anything that...

Hi, I followed this discussion in October-November, to install a new ACC carpet in my 4-speed Challenger. I went with the updated advice above (separating water from the carpet makes sense) and screwed the shifter boot to the transmission hump direct. Previously, I installed dynamat over the...

I am checking on all the carpet install threads as I am just getting started on a new ACC carpet for my Challenger (I did not get the mass backing because I put down dynamat). This one is really helpful. I do not have the original carpet to use as a reference - does anyone know by how many...

Cool thanks; good reason to get my bench grinder going. I just don't want it to close to the car as with my luck I'll shoot a bolt right into the paint LOL. Space is a bit tight around it!

That makes sense, thanks. It explains that some thread on the bolt is corroded, where it was seated in the threaded hole, but above that line the threads are clean. And also why it is hard to run a straight tap through the hole. Is there a good way to clear corrosion out of the seat belt bolt...

The chart MoparCarGuy posted in this thread in February is really helpful - I needed to sort out the seat belt bolts for my 73 Challenger, which were mostly mixed up in a box. Some came from a 72 Challenger I had earlier. Three of them were rear seat belt bolts, still screwed in place in my...

Hi, I saw this post today while researching seat belt bolts for my Challenger. Did you ever get an answer? I tried to clean the shoulder belt hole threads with a 7/16-20 tap also, a few days ago. It did not go so well, and I believe that is because the bolts and the holes are tapered. The...

Just following up, I did drill out the hole for the clutch safety switch wire at the correct location using a very long bit from inside the car (3/8 if I recall), then deburred it and painted the bare steel edge. The dimple made drilling relatively easy. I just need a grommet now.

Thanks guys for the photos! I got up in there this morning and could not find any sort of keeper mounted to that support bracket like you can see in the photos. It could be because this was an automatic car originally, but still automatics need a speedometer. Go figure. I am not sure if my...

To clarify, I think I am good to go on the cable's path inside the engine compartment. What I am trying to make sure I have correct is the route the cable takes inside the car, under the dash. Right now I have it up above the clutch pedal pivot mechanism, under the return spring. However...

Thank you; I have to jack the car up soon and see if the cable bracket is still there as my restorer replaced the floor pans. It should keep the cable on the outside of the master cylinder as you note. What is the OEM route for the cable inside the car?

Hopefully this forum is ok to post this question. I just installed a brand new speedo cable from Rick Ehrenberg in my car. It is a 4 speed, converted from automatic. The most direct route from the firewall port to the speedometer takes the cable above the clutch pedal pivot mechanism, right...

Bingo, mystery solved. Thanks guys. Yes, my 73 was an automatic to begin with, and my restorer put the pedal assembly from my 72 manual car into it. They did not drill out that hole you discuss above, so I will look for it. I will drill it out if I can get to it. Hopefully I won't have to...