I use the Blair bit's. Center punch the spot weld, use an 1/8th drill bit and drill A pilot hole. I try not to go all the way through. slowly drill the spot weld keeping the bit straight. when you see the top of the blades disappear you are through the first layer. I like doing this instead of...
Well I would start by disconnecting the oil and temp gauges at the sending unit's Ground the wire to A good known ground one at A time and turn the key on, if the gauge pegs out it's the sending unit. if not it,s wiring or the gauge it's self. your voltage limiter must be functional if the gas...
Better have A few drain pans around, no matter how well you think you drained the cooling system you never get it all. Some speedy-dry and old rags near by never hearts ether. I would drain the oil before I pull the engine
Detmat hit that one right in the bulls eye.us old timers are not as fast as we user to be. some shops use old car restoration as fill in work between insurance work. if A shop charged the going hourly rate for the actual time spent restoring an old vehicle it would not be cost effective for...
I have A project 70 RT/SE, have not touched it in years. When I joined up on the forums I used the VIN designation as my user name. Now I have A 70 barracuda gran coupe that I drive but keep the same name.
If you are using base coat clear coat You could pull the tape off after the base is applied and clear over everything. I would and have sprayed adhesion promoter over the decal before the clear.
The best tool in my experience is A blare bit. center punch the weld,use A 1/8 drill bit on the center. I try not to drill all the way through, than take the blare bit and drill down until the teeth disappear. you will then be through the first layer.