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I got a sample of a tempered material and the NYLON plastic heads came in. Put them together with rivets and success. I can bend the head back farther than needed to latch or unlatch and boing, sounds like a gitar string! It goes right back to original! Amazing what the right material can do! I...

Well I got the 1095 Spring steel parts the other day.... minor setback. they were cut from annealed material. The manufacture knew the usage and they made the recommendation. What part of SPRING did I not explain? ARRRG at least they are remaking them with tempered 1095 spring steel (ie Blue...

It will be 1095 Spring Steel The photo is the prototype and painted plastic.

The odd looking shape on the rivet heads is reflection

I made a small tweak to the design, unperceivable to the naked eye. I will be able to crush the rivets now. Spring steel straps ordered Latches ordered Rivets in hand Setting tool in hand Shaped backup for the rivet head in hand

So I got some rivets... Top one is a screw still. My rivet driver is too fat to fit in the area to drive the rivet in. Ill try thinning the driver in the conflicting area or modify the latch a tad to allow the driver to fit in. I'll have to make a proper shaped anvil to backup the rivet so to...

I'm working up a price for the spring metal and the plastic latch, rivets paint etc. Now for the tough part how much would you be willing to pay for a set of 2 pieces? This does not include the lower V shaped part that bolts to the body. The plastic would be white not yellowed like the OEM...

I have CAD for the metal strap but no plans to make it. I'll price it out for shitts and giggles

It's on loan. And too pricy for me to buy. As for the entire assembly... Up front costs too high for me.

Hi all, I am developing a replacement plastic head for the 70-71 E body convertibles with manual top. I am supplying screws and nuts to secure the plastic to the OEM spring metal. (A buyer could obtain rivets and use those if they want the most OEM look but they will not be supplied. The...

The hollow end rivets are not too expensive . I also thought about a small plate with tapped holes to screw the screws into. Painted black it would be almost invisable.

The a body guys are trying to talk me into rivets, I think I'll make it for a screw with the head where the rivet head is. That way if someone wants to rivet it on they can. And I expected a drop of lock tire would be a good choice. I make a lot of A body misc parts. And can make B,C,E body...

Hi All, Some of you know me from FABO and know that I reproduce the parts that are not financially feasible for the big reproducers to make. I Reverse engineer the OEM part and produce them in Plastics, Stainless Steel or Aluminum. I strive to make parts that are physically identical to the OEM...

[FOR FREE] - E Body 8 3/4 Axles just pay shipping

Housing Sold

Backing Plates Sold

More Photos

More photos

E-Body Housing 56.5 flange to flange & 46 perch CL to perch CL Axles LBP 30" long (1 with good-Left hand studs, 1 with no studs) 11 x 2.5 backing plates and hardware (both adjusters work freely, one wire wheeled) 11 x 2.5 drums (Turned, one measures 11.090" the other is 11.126" parts store...

Took some photos. 56 1/2 flange to flange (Assuming Moparts' dimensions are correct it can't be any thing but 70-74 E-Body) 46 CL perch to CL perch (yes the photo is left side to left side but that's the same as Cl to CL, 65-73 B-Body or 70-74 E-Body) Breather on the hump pre 70 Any thoughts...