Search results for query: *

EZ to test a multimeter when the module is pulled out, check for continuity and resistance for each coil.. Most likely U find 1 is open... Just my $0.02....;)

Bilstein shocks are incredible but when I built my Mopar not available like now so I installed Konis. The only advantage of the Konis is that they are adjustable. Anyway IMHO the Bilstein and Koni shocks are more $$ but far superior to the KYBs and other brands... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Yeah... I checked out the TKX but didn't want to modify the tunnel for clearance. Also pushing down the transmssion's tail shaft doesn't permit the N96 air grabber base to be flush with its hood gasket.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

JULIUS: Here is the contact info for the A-855. John Huff Yellowstone Garage (307) 262-0125, he is located in Wyoming. Take care.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Mopar big block, billet aluminum rear main oil seal block retainer with bolts and (2) FelPro seals and side seals. NEW, never used. $85 plus shipping from SoCalifornia.

Correcto.. By applying a low DC voltage across the gauge's contacts, it should read something.. If nothing then the gauge is bad.. This applies to the gas , water temp an oil pressure gauges not the amp.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

The RTE limiter is an awesome product but.. The 1 thing I dislike about the RTE limiter is that the Mopar OE dash gauges have a built-in thermal system that needs to warm up, and with the RTE's lower voltage output this takes a few minutes. Note that the OE voltage limiter applies a higher...

Basically the oil, temp and fuel gauges are a 5V dc gauge. Using some AA cells wired in series across each gauge, it should read about 70% scale. If no reading then bad gauge.. Just my $0.02...

Is the ralley dash cluster out of the car?? Then EZ to test each guage on the bench. Just my $0.02..

Yes.. But OE Mopar dash lites are not bright to begin with.. Just my $0.02...

A simple FIX is to jumper the dash lite dimmer rheostadt, so that the 12V goes direct to the dash lites.. The dimmer rheostadts are 50 years old and typically are dirty with poor winding/contacts.. Just my $0.02...

For those not familiar with the SF Valley, here is a map for Stone Fire Grill... Just my $0.02...

Note that the Saturday Nite Cruise-In has been changed from Bob's to Stone Fire Grill @9220 Winnetka, which is about a mile northwest of Bob's... Just my $0.02...

I wanted the 5-speed but no availability, so I went the Hemi OD route. It has been great for my application just cruising around and occassional freeway loops. In the end, I have nothing but compliments to Jamie Passon... Just my $0.02...

Note the OE factory tach is not compatible with later after-market transistor ignition modules, it may read but will be inaccurate. The tach has to be matched to the iginition module.. Just my $0.02....

Check out the Holley retro-bright LEDs, pricey but they work very well and no cutting of the mounting buckets. I installed these in my 70 RR, and fabricated Y connectors so I have (4) low or (4) high..... Just my $0.02...

Sorry, no pics for down the road. But since I have (4) I wired them in parallel so I have (4) low beams or (4) hi beams). They lite way down the road just fine, but a big plus now is their light dispersion output is much wider than the standard OE incandescent bulbs as well so now the road...

U can find them for less $$, if U do a search. But yeah needing (4) does drive up the $$. The lites are sourced from Mirimoto, and built well. What I like is their cast heat sink design which is shallow and allows the lite to be mounted in a stock bucket without any cutting. Just my $0.02...

The Holley retro-brites are pricey but well worth it.. I installed (4) in my 70 RR. They bolt right in and work great... Just my $0.02...

EZ to check the motor operation... Run some wires(12V+/12V-) directly to the motor bypassing the resistor pad... Just my $0.02...