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Hi, just moved to Orlando and ready to get my 72 Rallye (original CA car so no real rot to speak of) stripped, straightened, and painted....any recommendations?

Hi, found a company (Borowski) that makes solid roller lifters for small block Mopar with the solid bronze bushing instead of needle bearings (like the RedZone Isky ones). They are the only solid bushing ones I can find for small block Mopar. Anyone ever use them, or anything else from Borowski??

I was looking around and found a company called Borowski that makes solid roller lifters for small blocks that have the solid bronze bearing like the Isky ones....anyone ever hear of them/use them??

I'm building a performance engine for my baby Chryco.....money is no object! LOL, I mean I've already got $8K into this stroker build, what's another couple!! :) I just don't want to have to deal with break in, etc required for flat tappet, and want to see if anyone else has experience with a...

Hey all, building a 408 stroker for my 72 Rallye 4spd Challenger. Cast steel crank, forged pistons, rods, all bought and balanced from Dave at Hughes Engines. I am putting the Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 multi port setup on it with mildly ported Edelbrock Aluminum RPM heads (also ported by Hughes), and...

And I just got the block back from the machine shop after all the work including having the mains align honed.....

OK, I swapped 2 and 4 bearings and it did help, also remeasured EVERYTHING with the dial bore gauge (right, left, front and back of each bearing half) and this is what I have...still don't know what to do about #5 on the left side...: Front Rear #1 L 0.0023 0.0024 R 0.0024 0.0022...

You know, I did not check the bores before I put the bearings in...it was just align honed, so figured they should be pretty close to the same.... Yes, I am an A&P My 72 that this engine is going in is an original FY1 Rallye 4 spd :) Feel free to send more pics of yours !! :)

I will give that a try, I am planning a 7 Qt Milodon Oil Pan, looking at the Low Pro 30941, as with my setup I expect to be up to 7K RPM....which is why I want the bearing clearances to be right :)

Hi, starting to assemble my block, the specifics are: 408 CI 10.5/1 Compression ratio (calculated) Balanced Scat cast crank and forged rods and pistons Edelbrock RPM heads, ported, Manley Race Flo valves with PAC springs Flat tappet cam/lifters, 1.6 ratio roller tip rockers, cam has over .600...

Has anyone used KBS Motor Coater to paint their engine? If so, thoughts? If not, any other recommendations? Thanks!

Love it!

I'm curious where the rest of the rust free Arizona car is?!? :)

Thanks, yes the sensors I believe are included, but the Tx is $1125 then $500 for a set of injectors, $470 for the throttle body and we're up to 2K without fuel rails or a manifold....add ~700 for those and you're at $2700 to build the Holley system where the pro flo has everything including the...

And I am guessing you liked it? Still had decent street manners??

So the camshaft selection is in!! Here is what was recommended: A flat tappet, solid lifters with EDM oil holes, and with these specs: Intake Exhaust Lift .384" .392" With 1.5 ratio rockers .576" .588"...

Hi, anyone here use the Milodon Low Pro oil pan? Have seen fitment issues on A body forums, and they are different K members, but can't find any issues with people reporting E body fitment issues, hopefully because there are none?? :)

Thanks, lots of decisions....the Holley solution putting it all together with the dual sync distributor and the sensors that you have to buy (CTS, MAP, MAT) make it at least $700 more for the Holley MPI solution over the Pro Flo that comes with everything including the distributor...

Thanks, looking at the Terminator X control system with the Holley in tank EFI module to eliminate the need for a return line could be a potential solution. I would still need to use the Edelbrock Super Victor manifold and fuel rails, as there really aren't other options for a small block Mopar...