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Can be reused but would most likely need to replace the seals. I ended up buying a nice set of eBay since mine were in terrible shape and given away.

So, my car has been apart for quite some time and I didn't remove the trim, the body shop did. I ordered new drip rails from AMD, but now I'm finding out that I might have needed another piece for the weather strip? If this is true, does anyone know who makes it? I just got rid of all my trim...

Bought this 22” kit over a year ago not realizing my new radiator bracket would be for a 26” rad. This kit is BRAND NEW. Includes the radiator, shroud, and fan. Shroud and fan are still sealed. Radiator was opened to test fit until I realized it was too small. This DOES NOT come with the relay...

I think I have the old latch assembly but I’ll have to look. I don’t think the latch is too high, the part that snaps over is hitting the radius but I can try lowering it to see if that gives it a little more room. Good idea. Moving the hood and fenders forward could help, I will look into...

Just put a borgeson PS kit in mine. Haven’t driven it yet but install was very easy. Smaller footprint and looks clean, plus quick ratio so no messing with the pitman arm.

Yes. The only reason I have a new striker is because the old one wouldn’t latch. I thought it was possibly bent but the new one is identical. Thanks though.

No but I may try to wear it in a little with a dremel lol. I’ll take a look at the old latch and compare. The original striker was obviously worn so I might try to take a little material off the new latch to try to get it to snap shut.

I thought that too so I replaced it and both are identical. If anything, the one mounting hole is slightly indented but that would only affect the left to right, not the forward and back which is my issue.

Not home at the moment but I can’t close it up at all. We had to modify the fenders a bit to even get them where they were so the door didn’t get hit when opening. I’ll figure it out with the latch I suppose, everything has needed tweaked on this car so what’s one more thing haha.

Kind of figured that was the only trick in the book. I’m going to have to modify it then, I can’t move it back any further. Quite an oversight by the guy who did my body work but that’s a whole other story…..

I used the spare striker. It latches fine when the striker is inserted with the flat part. If i slide it towards the engine though, like it is in my photos, the latch will not snap over top of the bar because it’s hitting the rounded portion of the striker. Either the striker needs to come...

These are the best I can get.

72 Cuda yeah. It’s a repop latch but it’s the only one I could find that is made for a E body. It’s a dynacorn piece.

So I’m working on finishing up my 72 restomod and I’ve run into an issue that I’m continuing to struggle with. The hood is aligned great, closes about 98% of the way, but the striker will not fit into the latch. The latch is moved as close to the rad support as possible and the latch only fits...

Some have single bars. My cuda had the same issue when we replaced my decklid. I ended up deciding to ditch the bars and I'm going to install some kind of strut instead. We could never get the decklid to sit level.

I planned to wrap them as well as my transmission coolant lines but I don't like the idea of constant contact whether it's rated for that or not.

Thanks. Yeah they were great to install. Only real issue I had with the headers is I can't seem to find a good way to route the starter wires to where they won't contact the header tube. I may end up having to shorten them or replace them with longer cables to get what I want. I had the car...

Been a while since I updated but things are still progressing, although slowly. Wife is still fighting the good fight and the car is now painted. I've begun installing the TTI exhaust that has been sitting in my garage for about 18 months. Headers went in very easily but I'm finding the mounting...

Got it, I didn’t notice there was a nut. It’s good now. My old one was fixed, no nut. As for DOT 5, I did not know that. I just grabbed 3 because that’s what I’ve always used in it. Too late now. It’s just on the top of the frame rail, I have leftover single stage we can touch it up with.

So I installed a new distribution block from Dr diff. Got everything installed and torqued and while bleeding the brakes I noticed a leak. Unfortunately for me it ruined some paint on the frame rail but such is life. Anyway, it’s not leaking from my lines, it’s coming from the terminal that...