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rallye hood inserts are generally black.

if you want it to pass as OEM, pretty darn hard and costly to fabricate just one. Cheaper to buy the $400 AMD cowl and cut out the part you want.

thanks for that. I think I need 1.5 ID, 2.5 OD. edit: My OEM cap does not bear those nipples, or outcroppings, at the 12 and 6-o-clock positions. edit: further research shows two caps for the 1970 Barracuda, one for ECS and one without. But only one, the ECS style for 1971.

You may need a donor to get that specific fragment of sheet metal. the AMD entire $400 firewall cowl part is fabricated the same way.

that kind of a patch is only as good as the skills of your body guy. while I've not used OER, specifically, I've inspected the AMD metal, and the gauge of steel measured identical to OEM. I'm only guessing, but I'm sure the OER stuff won't disappoint.

I seem to recall it possible to get the 426 hemi in a 1970 Barracuda body with a flat plain-jane hood. special order, of course, like maybe in a gran coupe? I say this, from memory, thinking I've seen one or two examples in the later 1980s at a car club in southern california. this would have...

thank you, GC. to clarify, are you saying THAT cap is too small for my 1970 Barracuda, but the box shows a good part number to google?

talk to me about the gas cap. my 1970 barracuda has a vintage locking cap I want to replace.

The OEM screws are #6-32 x 3/8 fillister head brass screws with dimpled or peened ends. My supply is limited, and I don't have a source, but I've not tried to source for several years. The screws that come with the kit will probably work, you'll know once you get the old ones out and can...

I did as EV2RTSE did, back in the 1990s, I drilled out the welds holding the old bushing in place, replaced with new ones, and welded them back shut. It takes a long time for these to wear out, and frankly, the old ones were not that bad, they just.... looked dirty and old. The bushings...

it's NOT that hard to remove and restake the butterfly valve retaining screws on the throttle shaft. but it can be a little spooky your first time. bear in mind, these retaining screws are customarily made of brass, and softer than steel. you'll want to source brass replacements. we have...

Oh, I'm so sorry. I may be referring to the 1970 Barracuda, my bad. There, the lift-buckle is standard, and the push-button deluxe. But opinions are free, so take it for what they're worth. We learn as we go, right? I'm sure you'll figure it out.

You may be right about the vinyl top. I thought I caught a glimpse of the holes for the vinyl top trim in the left-rear image, but after looking at it again, I think you're right. Also, it's common for the top-to-quarter panel transition to look rough once the vinyl top is removed, so I may...

Your parts may not be NOS, in that they were actual Chrysler-issued parts. But they may very well be vintage new parts by Anco. Wiper blades are among the more commonly replaced parts, just like air and oil filters. So having "original" ones is not an easy claim to make. That said, I saved...

Regardless of what you do or change, take very special care of the dash VIN plate, and/or fender tag (if still present) It looks like an SE interior, nice option. But not the SE back window, too bad. The floor pans looks really good, perhaps too good to be original, but no one will care...

that's a good price for this hard-to-find part. When seeking the lock assembly, sometimes we can score the rod for free. The end clips are available aftermarket.

The "deluxe buckle" is harder to find OEM, as it was an option, but seems more common among the aftermarket offerings.

I think other posters have helped you figure this out, but the Moog K-7308 is the one you want. For some reason, some search engines tell you to use the Moog K-7309 and its wrong, and too small, at least for the 1970 Barracuda with 8.75 rear axle. Many rebuilders will use polyurethane at this...

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$300 for a clean (F+R) set is a bargain.