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If the studs are long-gone, you may have to use the 1970 variety.

drill the holes, first. this allows you to paint/prime them to combat the rust that befalls poor vinyl top installations. You can feel their placement after the top is installed. If you make a drilling template, you can use it after the top is installed to better find the holes.

ready for a quick road trip, @Cuda Hunter ?

That looks like a ballast resister. Maybe for a slant-6, I have the least experience with those.

No, But I ordered a set from PG Classics, and the belts are really nice. Please share some of those differences. I welcome learning more. I chose this set because it matches the standard OEM buckle and tips for my 1970 Barracuda better than any other set I've looked at.

Well done. Had I known the battery was on the trunk, this is where I would have started.

hmm. it might be interesting to note how difficult it is to crank without the spark plugs installed. With them removed, compression ratio is off the table.

originals can be super hard to find. you may have to make do with aftermarket until you can find OEM. it's taken me years to complete a stolen setup.

The vacuum pump may seem intimidating, but it's a great tool to service your A/C yourself. I bought one off Amazon for abt $50, along with some basic gauges and A/C tools, but only used it twice in 8 years. Both cars (one classic, one modern) incurred damage and the A/C needed to be vented and...

If there is one thing @Cuda Hunter seems manic about, it's those M46 scoops!

that image will be from the 1970 Plymouth Service Manual.

thank you. I was hoping to see ALL the casting numbers. not just the part number. as in the number below the weep hole and the date code.

These look really good. Can you give me an image of the casting numbers that is in focus? Shipping will be to 95472.

the automatic OEM transmissions were bare aluminum metal. possibly with overspray from engine paint, although this isn't consistent. But the four speeds (also bare metal) may be improved using a metal finish product. An aluminum transmission that is discolored can be made bright again using a...

A lack of a power or disc brake code (although, the B11 code may be on the broadcast sheet) suggests standard option manual drum brakes, front and rear. and for a 1971 BS-car Cuda, this is the "B11 - heavy duty manual drum brakes" which is 11x3.0 in the front, 11x2.5* in the rear. I see...

The 1970 e-body I own is pretty original and is equipped with 11-inch manual drum front and rear. Unless you have OEM front disc, the 11-inchers in the rear may indeed be original. Fear not, though. What makes you think the rears were originally 10-inch? Share an image of your fender tag...

I've got your 233 distributor. I'll have to go dig it out of storage and take some pics. If I find it, I'll post some images, here.

my fins were only slightly tweaked, with no missing material, and once straightened (not perfectly, I admit) still seems to be in balance when spun. I've since put 100K miles on it, over the years, the the water pump is still going strong.

Those markings can vary a little bit. The casting number looks correct for an E-body, and the "300" date code suggests 30th day of year in 1970, which may mean this axle we not original to a 1971 model year. There may be date codes on the rear drum brake backing plates (inner-=side, medial)...

bummer. I feel your pain. I too, lost a water pump shaft going "over the grapevine" in California. The grapevine is a major interstate that climbs 4144 ft and down again, and not an uncommon place for cars to break down. While my fan blades were a little bent, and the radiator beyond...