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  1. M

    71 340 OIL CONVENTIONAL/SYNTHETIC

    Sadly, Rotella no longer has sufficient zinc and phosphorus additives for use with flat tappets. Also little packets or bottles of ZDDP additives don't work either. Driven brand oil is the best for flat tappet cams. Lucas and Brad Penn also make such an oil. There may be other brands. The new...
  2. M

    71 340 OIL CONVENTIONAL/SYNTHETIC

    Use only mineral oil - Driven brand with zinc for flat tappets. With roller cam you can use any mineral oil. My machine shop says synthetics are too be avoided on these old engines.
  3. M

    Push rods

    That is correct. The follow up question is, why did Chrysler do that?
  4. M

    Push rods

    Respectfully, that is incorrect. I built just such an engine. Look up the part numbers. These LAs oiled both ways from the factory. 1989 360 LA, original untouched engine out of a W250 pickup.
  5. M

    Push rods

    The later roller cam LA engines oiled through the cam bearing and the lifters. They had oil holes in the push rods and modified the rocker arms slightly. 1989 LA 360 for example.
  6. M

    1970 Challenger slant six Y09 car update

    It's been a while since I posted about bringing my slant six '70 Challenger back from Thailand. So much to unpack - Thai red tape is enough to test anyone's faith. I couldn't get the export permit because the car hadn't been registered in 10 years. The people at the DMV near me wouldn't register...
  7. M

    There is no ugly

    Put the hemi in the Satellite. Nix the tunnel ram and leave the flat hood. Perfect!
  8. M

    4-Speed Tunnel Hump: Fully Welded or Spot Welded from Factory?

    The hole was torch cut. Early cars were tack welded with a stick welder. Later cars were tack welded with a mig welder with some real heavy wire. It was crude and sloppy. I don't fully weld them. I tack just like the factory did. It's thin metal and doesn't need or like all that weld/heat...
  9. M

    1970 Challenger Export Car

    The old girl is running. I changed the oil and today I will take it on a test drive. Tomorrow I have appointment at the Land Transport Office (Thai equivalent of our DMV). Luckily I was able to get the appointment at Banglamung instead of Chonburi that they first wanted. That's only 17km / 10.5...
  10. M

    1970 Challenger Export Car

    Again, thanks for your responses. To answer hdwrench: I've considered everything you said. I recently built a slant six for a customer. It was a lot of fun. In the end I'm glad I didn't do it for myself as the power increase was minor. I never liked 6 cylinder engines, but that's just me. I have...
  11. M

    1970 Challenger Export Car

    Thanks for all of your positive responses. The consensus is to keep the slant six. It is the matching numbers engine and is probably part of the reason this Challenger survived. I will certainly leave that part for last. As for having it painted in Thailand, they can do good work when they want...
  12. M

    To be A/C or not to be A/C

    Keep all the original air parts and make them work. I do it all the time. If you can't find any R-12 you can use propane. Yup. Or use an R-12 substitute. Every time you mess with factory engineered parts you risk starting a cascade of further repairs / operations. The engineers at Chrysler got...
  13. M

    1970 Challenger Export Car

    Back in 2000 I bought a 1970 Challenger in Bangkok, Thailand. It was sold new there, but I can't find any documentation of the selling dealer or first purchaser. I had Galen Govier decode it. It's FK5 - Burnt Orange with K4 Burnt orange interior, V1W white vinyl roof, bucket seats, console, AM-8...
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