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It's a 6g, 7 ft, so the Powermaster guy was right, I need 125 mega fuse.

So, with the strap I'm around a stable 14.95/15 à 1200 RPM. It's better. Is it safe for do a little run just to let the engine warn up ? I have a race camshaft, my idle is at 1000 RPM, so at cold I'm around 1200, maybe the voltage will drop a lil bit. And for the mega fuse on the charge wire...

Is that a good strap ground spot ?

I have an Optima red batterie, checked by a pro shop just a few weeks ago, charged yesterday, she was at 12,7 before the start, 12,9 when after 30 secondes of idling. I think the batterie is not a problem

I'm good for this ground, I cleaned the alternator ground too, I will try the ground strap, thanks !

Thanks. Started the car today, stuck around 15/15.5 at cold idle (1200 RPM, big cam). Should it have worked at the point where I am (not to mention security, just speaking about voltage regulation) ? Or do I still have a problem with ground for the voltage regulator ? Because I looked under the...

So, here's what I did : I bypassed the Ammeter gauge like this (connections are not definitive, it's just for the test, I do not want to cut any stock wire until being sure it works) : - Tied Red and Black Ammeter wires together behind the dash. - I took the black alt wire from my old harness...

That perfect, I will study all of this and do my homework, thanks a lot everyone for your help and your kindness. Keep you informed !

Thanks, I checked carefully the voltage regulator and alternator ground, but not the body frame, I will check that. Thanks. Edit : of course I still have the blue fuse, the only thing I did is put the charge wire, and try this with ou without the Ammeter.

Thanks !

Don't worry I'm really not offended :)

Sorry it may be difficult to understand me because I am French. Yes, This is what I did for the first test. After that, I just disconnected the black and red wire behind the Ammeter, and tied them together (to avoid burning the ammeter), but it didn't charge like that.

Sorry for the delay . Here is the news : Tried to not bypass the Ammeter (so I connected the black wire on the BAT post of the alternator, with the charge wire), better, at cold idle, 1200, I'm around 14.5. Drove few minutes, had smalls peaks aboves 15, but never above 16. Out of curiosity...

Thanks for your help, keep you informed.

I think it never worked good, changed the alternator in 2017 (I don't remember why), wired it like the old one. Never have low battery problem. Install the Sniper EFI some years ago, guys on the Holley forum seen my voltage was too low in my datalog, so I changed the voltage regulator (for a...

AI tried with 3 different regulator, with a tuff stuff (7545), with the regulator that was in the car when I bought it, and a Mopar Performance, I think I must have made a mistake with the connection.

Okay, I did not try to connect the Ammeter because it's in the same place as the charge wire, I'm not an electrical expert, so I didn't want to wire together a black and a red (positif) wire on the same place, but do you think I can try ? Because I see with your video, without the Ammeter...

Yes I can tell you how the car is wired, I wired it myself ten years ago, all the harness are from YearOne (here the engine harness : https://www.yearone.com/Product/Challenger-Cuda/HU107E (1000-10) - 1970-1970) Yes I bypass the Ammeter, I read more powerfull alternator can burn Ammeter. I...

Thanks for the video 72RoadRunnerGTX, I will check that. Before I install the charge wire, the battery didn't charge, it was stuck around 12/12.5. Here the instructions for the Powermaster alternator and for the charge wire :

Hi everyone ! Here my specs : 1970 Challenger Engine is a 73 440. MSD 6AL Sniper EFI (1) Dual Sync distributor. My alternator is overcharging, it's a Powermaster 7019, when I start the engine the battery go up to 16 at 1200 RPM. I installed a new Mopar Performance voltage regulator, new...