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Nah, just need to keep timing in check. Too much hassle with all that Methanol/water injection. A buddy has it on his Blown 360 Magnum in his truck and it didn't save his head gaskets, or stop the knock sensor from cutting back his timing.

Well, with the pinging going on, maybe, maybe not.

UPDATE: I finally got this thing running and drove it. However, I think I have a little too much compresssion with iron heads. It REALLY likes 116 Octane. 93 just ain't gettin' it. Other than that, I still need to paint it.

Not sure if this will help you, but I just dumped a 440 and 4-speed in where a 318 and 904 Auto was. Used the Same crossmember and mount for the trans so I'd say SB and BB are the same.

I've NEVER swapped the T-bars in ANY of the cars i've built. Ever. For one reason or another, I decided to try out MP Biggest bars "RB and Hemi. Improved handling"...Lemme just say even without the engine in the car, I can tell they are stiifer. I measured my old bars(318) and these are only...

Operating and hooked up correctly, I would think Vacuum Advance has no effect on WOT as there's no vacuum to advance timing.

Cheaper than any of those "Sanden" units, and it's what I could get laying around the shop. These compressors (Asian), almost never have problems like the Sanden units do with leaking.

This is my converted small block to Big Block PS mount... Now all I have left is to custom mount a Ford A/C compressor to the 440 and new lines to evaporator and I'm cruisin' in style.

A few updated pics of the progress, as the Cousin lost his contract (Military) and I caught a bit of a break with the Camaro, so back on the Dodge.

Here is the finished Floor pan... Here is the restored Dash Cluster..(Dash pad doing soon, as these things are over $900.00 redone. i will prolly be doing a dash cap) And here's the LED dash lights. E-bodies use what's called a "Light bar" mounted up top..

Away we go.... Of course, being the cheap bastid that I am, I bought the Cheap, "china" floor pan and had to weld the reinforcements for the seat bolts to the underside..Of course, it wasn't stamped deep enough and the pieces had to be bent down on the ends and welded length wise...

Well, I always said I'd have to get a deal on an E-Body IF I ever even owned one at all....Never say never, cause you just never know.... A friend passed away a while back, and his wife called me to see if I'd be interested in some "Old cars" he had on the property as she was cleaning up... Dan...

How do we know it's the suspension? Is the 496 "Lazy" out the hole with a dead up hook and straight drive? Is the car getting a full hook? May not be all suspension related, but good place to start.

Sweet!

Don't have a pic, so will attempt to describe best I can. What is the little metal piece sticking up behind the engine mounts welded to the K Frame on a 1972 Challenger?(One on each side) They stick up all in the way when I have a BB with headers and I don't want to cut them out if they serve a...

Brewer's, or Passon performance...

Bang for the buck? BB 440.... Looking to go really fast? 440 stroker. Looking to dominate? 540 C.I. stroker With a turbo.... Cheap,Fast and reliable. Pick two...

Careful with the mid 70's 360's...I tried boring one out and ran into water @.020 over.

Remember, with ethanol fuel, it is already running a certain amount lean to begin with. This isn't as big a deal when it's Fuel injected, but carbs can be finicky at best when alcohol is a factor.

Have swapped a slant 6 to BB Wedge with homemade mounts. Never swapped out T-bars, but did have to swap out for larger radiator. T-bars were already in another BB Car I have and they do make a difference, so would recommend them as well. Will most likely need BB 727, or bellhousing for A833...