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@Cratos Sent you a PM, need an address!!!!

Sent you a PM. I bet I solved it in the PM... Won't have anything to do with the OEM side of the system.

If you get active action on unrelated circuits, that sounds like ground hunting.

Timing if a stocker camshaft is decent. My guess is the carb is boiling off fuel, flooding the engine and draining bowls. With that timing I wouldn't expect excessive cranking. Flick of the key type settings. I'd hold it wide open and crank it and see if it starts quicker when hot. If it...

This should not require any drilling of the throttle plates IMO. That is an absolute last resort move. That is the same as the controlled vacuum leak barry grant carbs had built into them through the air cleaner stud hole.

Get the idle tune squared away and see if the response when you crack the throttle isn't snappier. Then order a plate and limit the mechanical timing. I'd start around 18-20 initial from past experience with those cams and set ups. Reset the idle and mixture screws using a vacuum gauge. You...

What distributor? If it's a OEM mopar or old school MP, use one of the limiter plates from 4 seconds flat. Easy to install, no welding/grinding. It's $35 How to limit mechanical advance in a mopar distributor, tuning for street, strip or all out racing, cure that rich stinky idle, win...

If that cam card is correct, you went from 230 at .050 cam to a 228 at .050 cam... that's nothing except it on a 115 LSA which is meh. That 115 lsa is NOT going to help with low rpm power at all, in fact it closes the intake REALLY late. Tuning it cost you nothing but some time. And it will...

At idle when you twist in advance and it speeds up, reset the idle speed back to the 800-900 area. If you just allow the engine to rpm higher, then you get the whammy of mechanical advance entering the picture which you DO NOT want when doing this test. If it picks up 50-100rpm, reset and add...

Try 18-20 and see what happens. You'll have to bust open the distributor to limit mechanical so your total number isn't out of bounds. On a street car, total timing method is a horrible way to set up the ignition. On a race car that sees pretty much only full throttle, fine, street driver no...

What's the idle tune up? If you don't have at least 16 initial timing, it's not going to run well at idle. If you say it's got X total timing, that may be a bunch of the issue. Might save you time and money if the tune is off. Just a suggestion.

504 cam lift. Not knowing duration, I'll guess it will want 18-22 initial timing. Don't drive it that way, see if the idle tune comes around. If it does, fix the mechanical advance in the distributor to hit the total numbers. The engine will likely be a bunch more snappy off idle with more...

If the info is based on a dyno run, the "in car" may be different. BTDT. The total number sure seems low at 29 unless it's super efficient or has a bunch of compression and can't handle a higher total. Setting timing using total advance on a street car is a terrible method. I've mentioned...

Thanks for the referrals. I got knocked off a ladder in late June and it was a tough go for a while. Contact with folks was spotty and I'm better now. I'm not on this site as much as FABO and FBBO. I see messages over there much more easily than here. My kits are engineered for stock mopar...

The system would not let me reply to you. Sent a PM. @1969RR Thanks

Yes I am Russ

Responded to your PM.

Hooker 5115 super comp headers for SB B/E body cars. Used with some dinged up lower tubes like most hooker headers seem to have. $140 + shipping from Indio, CA Shipping is probably best via greyhound. I can likely send these for about $30-40 anywhere in the ConUS. PM me or see my ad at...

Plug and Play AC Compressor Relay Kits are now available. The kit works on the same principle as my other relay kits, remove the heavier amp loads from the bulkhead and older/expensive switches our cars came with originally. The relay kits extend the life of the OEM switches via reducing...

Bad wiring, bad connections at bulkhead are the most likely culprits I won't start about the ammeter... :)