Search results for query: *

My starter is pretty new. Am going to try heat shielding.

Good idea . Will do that

Have direct battery to engine earth. Will double check but think it's OK.

Checked and can't see any. Will look again.

My recently rebuilt 512 sixpack with Al. heads and a modest cam with hydraulic followers starts from cold and runs well. However sometimes when hot the (mini) starter struggles to crank the engine and it spits back through the middle carb. Allow to cool and it starts fine. Timing is set at 35...

Finally fitted my six pack to my 440. A while ago I downloaded information on tuning them (can't remember where from). One author says - ",.....I like a six pack to come in quick,....you'll have to buy 2 spring kits, replace with the "white" springs if you want a quick responding set-up,....if...

.....or perhaps it doesn't matter precisely the gauge, just the number of turns?

Long shot but does anybody know the gauge of the enamelled copper (?) winding wire in the temperature gauge. Mine is cooked.

All from same supplier so should be OK

I am dealing with spots that have appeared in my paintwork on some places eg. It is on the side of the left front fender but not on top. Paint is cellulose. The pic is after rubbing down with 120 grit. Are these micro blisters? What do you think caused this. Can I paint over now or do I need to...

I did the inside of outer skin but not under the plastic panel. Will do that too. My panels are leather trimmed which probably helps. Hinges are rebuilt.

Yes, I have vapour barrier. I guess I must just go through everything and make sure it's tight and damped or insulated. The cloth on the lock/handle rods may make a difference too.

Already done that - perhaps I'm being too picky!

No cloth sleeves. Will fabricate something. It varies with window location. Worse when down. Both doors.

70 Challenger. I THINK I have everything assembled correctly but there is a rattle when I close them. I have new cats whiskers and the top adjustable dampers against the glass are in place. Even if I hold the glass whilst closing it still does it. Could someone please suggest what to look at to...

I have a never rebuilt, low compression 1976 440 in my 70 Challenger. It runs very well but I want to do justice to the car and rebuild it with at least the HP it should have had in 1970. I don't do burnouts, race or drag. I do very few street miles but I want some real power when I do floor it...

Problem solved. Brakes now very good with new 9" dual booster. The question remains - why are many sellers offering 4 wheel E body disc conversions that have 1" m/cs and 8" boosters. One mine I used 1 1/8" m/c and 9" booster to get good brakes - is it just me? Thanks to everyone who took the...

Thanks for the info. My prop valve is disc/disc so should be OK. Vac check valve is good ( and on the right way!).

Looked at valve tutorial on the MB site to understand residual valves. I have never come across them (external) because my MC's have always been at high level. It seems that new MC's don't have built in residual valves.

Thanks - a lot to think about. All caliper pistons move freely. MB didn't mention the residual valve and I'm not familiar with it - I'll google it but can you tell me more? I have a non adjustable proportioning valve and used a blanking screw to ensure it remained centred during bleeding. It...