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I pay close attention to what you say. I think you are one of the few here in a class of you own. Very knowledgeable. You know what you are doing. Now I wonder if this is a test? Maybe your just seeking a first hand experience. No offence meant here. This is why our mopars where built.

That happened on a job site I was working. EV hit a construction vehicle. EV found at fault. No matter what EV does, does not make it right! It's on the driver. That's why I stated the below. EV speed more than likely greater than any motorist in front of it. Motorist needs time to react to an...

It's hard to recover from a triple hit. We have all been there in some form at some time. But we made it! I know it hard to just say it a car. there are other things of greater value. As far as the collision. Passenger side hits a driver's door. Just doesn't look right. Someone was trying to...

Depends on what gauge wire and length you put on.

Yes. I would say anywhere on the motor and cowl or firewall would be good for the components. there.

I had to go and check it. It is a 1 3/8". I did this a long time ago. Mid 70's. One of the first things I did is change the gas cap to a Flip up gas cap. This is the original cap. Just had to correct myself. I stand corrected.

The volage regulator for the gauges regulates the voltage to 5v. 12v just fries them.

When it goes bad. From what I have seen it wipes the gauges out too.

Battery Hydrometer Readings Chart State of ChargeSpecific Gravity Values for Temperate ClimatesSpecific Gravity Values for Tropical Climates Fully Charged1.250 – 1.2801.210 – 1.230 75% Charged1.220 – 1.2401.190 – 1.210 50% Charged1.190 – 1.2101.160 – 1.180 25% Charged1.160 –...

The voltage looks to be about 1 volt high. But that could depend on the battery's state of charge ( That I would check) or the demands of the other components. It still should come back down when the battery is fully charged. 14.4 to 14.7. Check the field wires from regulator to the...

This is where the factory ground is for the chassis. The battery negative and the headlight ground is there. Then there is the negative battery cable on the motor. Then the alternator mounting hardware is the ground for the alternator. The body is the ground for all others. It wouldn't...

The grounds. Someone might have put to much sealer on the threads of the sensors. Bulkhead connector, bad connection.

The steering column connector. At a minimum replace the Acc black and Batt feed red connector with Anderson connectors. The rest should be ok, not that high of a load. 72RoadRunnerGTX has showed this fix before. Replacing all connections.

At this point, it is better than is was. The bulkhead connectors are the problem as any of those connections. for now keep them clean and tight. Maybe later reroute bypassing bulkhead connectors. You are now feeding all loads through the both battery and alt wire feed off of one fusible link...

Try lacquer thinner. Dampen a rag and keep it damp. Give it some time and rub. Don't soak it.

I believe the pictures I posted show that area.

This might help. Not sure what plate you talking about. Picture? Parallelism and Primary Seal (1) Raise window completely. (2) Loosen screw at belt on upper end of front track. (3) Align and set front edge of glass to “A” pillar and top edge to roof rail weatherstrip creating a parallelism with...

So much for a good memory. It's good to clear the cache at times.

Pull the fuse see if turns off. Unplug this connector under the steering column. If the fan stays on, you have a short in the dash wiring harness. If not it's the ign sw. The blower motor is feed from acc side of fuse box. It's a misnomer showing battery. Not directly connected to battery...

In shot you have a short. Bad ign sw or melted wire from battery to amp gauge feeding the acc side of sw. Or the wiring was altered at sometime.