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to quote gran cuda book says 45.85 383 2bbl 2.76 373 ratio 3 1/4 diameter 45.60 383 4bbl ALL Ratio 3 1/4 diameter cuda's are 43.85 383 2bbl 43.60 383 4bbl 3 1/4 diameter 42.60 Hemi .440 43.60 auto Hemi ,440 formatting is weird but it's on page one does that help?

^ +1!! i havent dealt with them at all but i agree about them stepping up. dorman makes all sorts of oddball products. some good some bad. i dont buy their intakes (i run the parts dept at the shop i work at) anymore because theyre made poorly and dont work. BUT the makes tons of GREAT stuff i...

did this ever get solved? you may want to check your thermostat if your having excessive heat and right away. I drove for over a year in my 383 coronet with a stuck thermostat cause I live in Washington and its always around 45 degrees out here. usually only drove shorter distances too. then...

beware. owning a welder may disable your car for a very long time. its a slippery slope. id borrow one.

blank? is it painted? I haven't found anything on the dnll

pre 71 383. don't know about the 4. ive seen 2 and 4 so I don't know if that 4bbl? I know 2bbl auto 383s had an unfinished pilot hole in the crank but im not gonna say that's the answer. its a 383 for sure. pre 71 b engine 383.

recent craigslist challenger that hit a sweet spot for me

hahaha oh man this ones got me in tears... well not literally cause im keeping quite as to not disturb the wifes reading but internally the tears are flowing. im not sure why either cause its not THAT funny, it just is...

so question, how high would you guys recommend my initial timing be set at then? right now its as high as I can set it without being blind as the marker only goes to 15 before. should I just keep advancing it until its either hard to start or not improving the vacuum? or should I just leave it...

ok so i pulled the vacuum advance line off of the dist and hooked it up to the vacuum guage, then set the initial timing to 15degrees btdc (i think the timing marker goes 0 5 10 "before" which i assume is the 15mark) and the idle picked up quite a bit and i was getting bout 13 inches of vacuum...

ok. and for the timing, what should the initial, non vacuum advance timing be set to? ive been researching that all morning and it seems it should be in the 10 to 15btdc range. its currently at 10 with the advance off though i realized when researching that i didnt plug the manifold vacuum line...

well, blew through the booster line, and the manifold advance line and even with a shirt over the carb wadded and pressed tightly, blowing hard, the only smoke was coming up through the primaries and out through little folds in the shirt. so im gonna say its actually not a vacuum leak. not too...

me and the wife are gonna go buy a cheap not so classy cigar and rig up a smoke test ;)

well "same engine" except nothings the same about it anymore. got another 65 383 steel crank complete engine, stripped it down and put bearings and rings in it used the 452 heads off the other motor with trickflow valve springs another new xe274 cam/lifter/tchain kit, new pushrods high volume...

ok i found a chart and the original rods and put them in and tried all the springs and none of them work

ok this is driving me nuts. im about ready to push the car off a cliff. so right now i have the blue springs for 3in of vacuum and it helps but ist enough, i have rich rods in and likely the factory jets. at 700rpm im getting a fairly smooth correct sounding idle but only 8 inches of vacuum. i...

ok at idle its at 6 inches of vacuum. which isnt much. i got a calibration kit for it and im gonna put the orange springs designed for 5 inches in and then if that solves it ill work on adjusting the jets and rods as i go. the next step up is for 7 inches so im assuming 5 inches would be best...

leo: i was just wondering the same thing haha cp: id like to hope/assume lighter springs would do the trick as i had this same carb running for a few years in my 383 before i rebuilt it. at the time it had a stock cam that was fully retarded. dont ask i didnt do it. same intake, ignition, and...

ok so i put the carb back on and adjusted it and got it running fairly good. the best it has since the rebuild. there are some kinks still. even after warmed up it idles at either 1000 rpm or choppy and trying to die. this happens if i lower the idle screw and also just turning the car on and...

thanks! yeah i spent my lunch tearing it down and cleaning everything out. the floats pins or whatever youd call those were a little sticky but i got them so they dont stick and also it was just in general kinda gummy in there and i suspected the accelerator pump of some foul play as well. so...