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440 conversion

Merrill Davis

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Good morning. I have a 340 in my 72 Challenger and plan to install a 440 engine. Is there anything that I should know before I do all of this that would help me avoid pain and sorrow? What about the motor mounts? I plan to put a new Holley 650 CFM on it. I would think that should be enough. I will install a high performance cam to give it a little sound. What about the exhaust? I recently put new exhaust on the car before I got the 440.

Any advice would be appreciated. I am excited about the change. I plan to drop the 340 in a 73 Dodge Dart Sport (Demon) with a rebuilt 727. It is a work in progress.

Challenger Right Side view  2017.jpg
 

704406

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Where to start, you need the motor mount brackets from a 383-440. Your exhaust, are you using headers or manifolds? Either way the header pipes will need to be reworked. What size is the exhaust pipe?
What's the 440 out of, and is it a complete running motor?
The radiator may not be big enough, and will need at least the upper hose connection changed and a shroud if you don't have one.
Auto or 4speed? If auto, Trans will need to be changed, and the kick down linkage.
I think the throttle cable might have to be changed?
Wiring harness to the coil, depending on where you mount it.
Power steering pump mounting brackets and alternator mount brackets are different.
Sounds like a lot to change but it's really pretty straight forward, just spend the time to locate the parts up front, less stress later!
You'll love it when it's done!
Ken
 

Adam

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The 440 is heavy, weighs about 120 pounds more than a small block. You might want to upgrade the torsion bars.

Likely the driveshaft will be a different length.

A Holley 650 is ok; but if upgrading the cam, intake, and headers I would use a 750. Just my 2 cents.
 

HooToTheCore

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Well I went through this conversion a year or so ago.

I have a 1970 Challenger originally with a 318 and 904 transmission. I also had a 440 and its mating 727 transmission from a 1971 Imperial that I pulled 30 years ago.

I had a shop do the machine work to the 440 and I reassembled it in my basement. I installed a slightly more aggressive camshaft to mimic the HP 440 and installed flat top forged pistons (since the engine was bored .030 over) to increase compression.

I discovered that my Challenger, even though the 318 was matching numbers, somehow had a B body K member (tried to install stock sway bar and the LCA tabs were in the wrong place and the bar could not go through the K member). I purchased an E body K member and LCAs to install during the swap.

I pulled the 318/904 and driveshaft. Cleaned the engine compartment. I had a couple of rust spots that needed repair and had the compartment repainted professionally.

I wanted a stock like swap, so everything I did would look original and it would reduce the issues with the swap. I went with stock HP manifolds on the 440. This made the engine fit properly and would allow me to install a stock like dual exhaust from Accurate. The smaller Imperial exhaust manifolds will not fit in the Challenger engine compartment! I had to drill holes under the rear seatback to add a bolt on hangar for the driver side exhaust and had to drill holes in the trunk floor pan for the rear driver side hangar.

The Imperial engine motor mounts worked perfectly mounting the 440 to the E body K member. Since the 440/727 is a different length than the 318/904, I needed a shorter length driveshaft. The shorter driveshaft took the heavier U joints, but the yoke on the differential was of the lighter U joints. There is a U Joint that will make this conversion. So the front joint is the heavy duty on all 4 pivot points and the rear U joint is heavy duty on 2 and light duty on 2. Some day I will upgrade the differential yoke to the heavy duty and put in a standard U joint (not the dual size). Probably do this when I go sure grip.

The accessories on the engine were alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump, water pump. I needed only to acquire the alternator brackets for Challenger configuration. The Challenger alternator sits lower so that the belts clear the upper radiator hose. The power steering pump needed no changes. I plan to add AC to the car at some point, so the AC compressor remains with the dual belt setup with the alternator. Separate belt for the water pump and idler pulley and separate belt for the power steering pump. The Imperial had a 4 belt crank pulley.

I installed the larger 26 inch radiator with fan shroud. I did not cut out and replace the passenger side radiator support for the larger radiator, I fashioned a plate that mounted the larger radiator to the smaller opening (I think cooling is sufficient). The radiator upper hose for the 440 connects to the passenger side and lower hose connects to the driver side, so this is opposite the 318 radiator hose connections.

I went with a stock Carter AVS 4 barrel carb and a dual snorkel air cleaner. I replace the throttle cable with one for the 440. I do not have electronic ignition, kept stock distributor with points.

I had to extend the temperature sensor and tachometer wires to reach the front of the engine (my Challenger was originally equipped with the RT gauge cluster).

I added the front sway bar and changed the torsion bars to the size required by 440 Challengers. I still have my front drum brakes, but this will probably be upgraded to disk in the future.

I did this whole job in my garage by myself with my decent tool set, except for the engine installation (I also have an engine hoist). I had a neighbor assist with that.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Jim
 

aussiemark

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If the 440 is out of a motor home or truck you will have to fit the correct mounts, sump, dipstick and tube as they are very different to the E body ones and I have seen water pumps with the hose spout on the opposite side as well (this could be a good thing for you depending where your radiator lower spout is)
 

Dodgeboy

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I did this years ago with my '74 went from 318/904 to a 383/727. I changed motor mounts, needed to modify the kickdown lingage, and had to shorten the driveshaft roughly 3/4 inch. You'll need the BB/RB alt brackets, had no issues with the powersteering and ended up changing the rad due to the factory rad didn't look too good so i just upgraded. I never touched the torsion bars and front suspension seems to be ok. If your 440 has a aftermarket intake/carb spacer then its better to switch out the factory kickdown rods with a cable. Even after modifiying my rods they were still hitting the firewall preventing the tranny from shifting correctly
 

Merrill Davis

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Where to start, you need the motor mount brackets from a 383-440. Your exhaust, are you using headers or manifolds? Either way the header pipes will need to be reworked. What size is the exhaust pipe?
What's the 440 out of, and is it a complete running motor?
The radiator may not be big enough, and will need at least the upper hose connection changed and a shroud if you don't have one.
Auto or 4speed? If auto, Trans will need to be changed, and the kick down linkage.
I think the throttle cable might have to be changed?
Wiring harness to the coil, depending on where you mount it.
Power steering pump mounting brackets and alternator mount brackets are different.
Sounds like a lot to change but it's really pretty straight forward, just spend the time to locate the parts up front, less stress later!
You'll love it when it's done!
Ken
Thanks for the response. Good information.
 

Merrill Davis

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Stantonsburg North Carolina
Well I went through this conversion a year or so ago.

I have a 1970 Challenger originally with a 318 and 904 transmission. I also had a 440 and its mating 727 transmission from a 1971 Imperial that I pulled 30 years ago.

I had a shop do the machine work to the 440 and I reassembled it in my basement. I installed a slightly more aggressive camshaft to mimic the HP 440 and installed flat top forged pistons (since the engine was bored .030 over) to increase compression.

I discovered that my Challenger, even though the 318 was matching numbers, somehow had a B body K member (tried to install stock sway bar and the LCA tabs were in the wrong place and the bar could not go through the K member). I purchased an E body K member and LCAs to install during the swap.

I pulled the 318/904 and driveshaft. Cleaned the engine compartment. I had a couple of rust spots that needed repair and had the compartment repainted professionally.

I wanted a stock like swap, so everything I did would look original and it would reduce the issues with the swap. I went with stock HP manifolds on the 440. This made the engine fit properly and would allow me to install a stock like dual exhaust from Accurate. The smaller Imperial exhaust manifolds will not fit in the Challenger engine compartment! I had to drill holes under the rear seatback to add a bolt on hangar for the driver side exhaust and had to drill holes in the trunk floor pan for the rear driver side hangar.

The Imperial engine motor mounts worked perfectly mounting the 440 to the E body K member. Since the 440/727 is a different length than the 318/904, I needed a shorter length driveshaft. The shorter driveshaft took the heavier U joints, but the yoke on the differential was of the lighter U joints. There is a U Joint that will make this conversion. So the front joint is the heavy duty on all 4 pivot points and the rear U joint is heavy duty on 2 and light duty on 2. Some day I will upgrade the differential yoke to the heavy duty and put in a standard U joint (not the dual size). Probably do this when I go sure grip.

The accessories on the engine were alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump, water pump. I needed only to acquire the alternator brackets for Challenger configuration. The Challenger alternator sits lower so that the belts clear the upper radiator hose. The power steering pump needed no changes. I plan to add AC to the car at some point, so the AC compressor remains with the dual belt setup with the alternator. Separate belt for the water pump and idler pulley and separate belt for the power steering pump. The Imperial had a 4 belt crank pulley.

I installed the larger 26 inch radiator with fan shroud. I did not cut out and replace the passenger side radiator support for the larger radiator, I fashioned a plate that mounted the larger radiator to the smaller opening (I think cooling is sufficient). The radiator upper hose for the 440 connects to the passenger side and lower hose connects to the driver side, so this is opposite the 318 radiator hose connections.

I went with a stock Carter AVS 4 barrel carb and a dual snorkel air cleaner. I replace the throttle cable with one for the 440. I do not have electronic ignition, kept stock distributor with points.

I had to extend the temperature sensor and tachometer wires to reach the front of the engine (my Challenger was originally equipped with the RT gauge cluster).

I added the front sway bar and changed the torsion bars to the size required by 440 Challengers. I still have my front drum brakes, but this will probably be upgraded to disk in the future.

I did this whole job in my garage by myself with my decent tool set, except for the engine installation (I also have an engine hoist). I had a neighbor assist with that.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Jim
 

Merrill Davis

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Thanks for the information. I was not aware about the drive shaft. I understand that I will need a different radiator. I have electronic ignition. The motor mounts will have to be changed then that support the 383-440 engine.

MD
 

Merrill Davis

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I did this years ago with my '74 went from 318/904 to a 383/727. I changed motor mounts, needed to modify the kickdown lingage, and had to shorten the driveshaft roughly 3/4 inch. You'll need the BB/RB alt brackets, had no issues with the powersteering and ended up changing the rad due to the factory rad didn't look too good so i just upgraded. I never touched the torsion bars and front suspension seems to be ok. If your 440 has a aftermarket intake/carb spacer then its better to switch out the factory kickdown rods with a cable. Even after modifiying my rods they were still hitting the firewall preventing the tranny from shifting correctly
 

704406

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What year is the 440? And what is it out of? Please tell us as it's easier to help when we have the correct information.
You need to have a 727 Trans from a B/RB motor.
The 727 from the 340 will not work!!
You need the motor mount brackets from a B/RB motor and ones that are the 1973 and older style, they will bolt to your K frame.
You need the 3 piece kick down linkage with the lower bell crank that bolts to the Trans, don't bother with the more common 1 piece kick down rod, that will not work.
I have done this swap many times in the past.
I always saved pulleys, bolts, P/S brackets, alternator brackets, and motor mount brackets off any B/RB motor I could find, especially off cars that didn't have A/C.
We are here to help so keep asking questions!
Ken
 

Merrill Davis

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What year is the 440? And what is it out of? Please tell us as it's easier to help when we have the correct information.
You need to have a 727 Trans from a B/RB motor.
The 727 from the 340 will not work!!
You need the motor mount brackets from a B/RB motor and ones that are the 1973 and older style, they will bolt to your K frame.
You need the 3 piece kick down linkage with the lower bell crank that bolts to the Trans, don't bother with the more common 1 piece kick down rod, that will not work.
I have done this swap many times in the past.
I always saved pulleys, bolts, P/S brackets, alternator brackets, and motor mount brackets off any B/RB motor I could find, especially off cars that didn't have A/C.
We are here to help so keep asking questions!
Ken
 
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