Recent content by Katfish

Had similar issue, my problem was air was getting in around the threads when the bleeders were cracked open. Read a tip to add sealant to the threads and it helped.

You guys in cold weather have it rougher. The CCA number is taken at 0 F and is roughly only 60% of the warm number. Since I'm in FL the cheapest 24F battery with 585 CCA is actually 900 for me, because my temps never go below 40F.

I understand, I have a couple too, curious whether to just throw them out. Shipping must make it difficult to sell.

Your lucky it was only twice, I replaced my gasket 3 times, and F'd around until I finally found it was the pivot shaft leaking down. Now that trans fluid is almost $10/qt, it can be an expensive ordeal. https://postimages.org/][/url]

What's the going rate for these?

This is rarely understood or acknowledged, Cost will always be at least 50% higher than expected when doing the work yourself, And 100% more when paying someone else to do the work.

Must be your local store? I've always taken in my old battery for the core, never had an issue. I don't buy the battery at normal check out at front of store, always do the transaction in the auto center.

Same here, I base everything on $/yr. I buy the Walmart battery for $75, they always last at least 5yrs. So would the $150 premium last 10yrs or the $300 lithium last 20yrs? Of course not.

Are the ones in the eBay link not correct?

The good Dr has forged repos Mopar Reproduction Disc Brake Knuckles for A/B/E Bodies

I would cut the mounts off a factory steel frame and fiberglass onto this part.

Why ceramic? Semi metallic stop better.

Does it have to be an E-body? A-bodies are typically cheaper. Pick this up, throw a Gen3 Hemi in it and have a killer car for <$15k Pardon Our Interruption...

Run as far and fast as you can from that car. Would take another $30k to make it worth $20k

As mentioned, I went with a larger screw on my sill plates. My next step would be to use a Nutsert.