Yes, most of that is true except for A/C cars ordered with optional G21 - Clear Glass.
Non-A/C cars with no glass code got Clear Glass (all windows) but only on non-A/C cars.
Non-A/C cars could order optional G11 - Tinted, All Windows OR G15 - Tinted Windshield only at extra cost.
A/C cars...
@Challenger RTA
That is not a vented cap and from what I can tell, the filler opening's neck size is smaller for 1971 (1-3/8" ?) versus 1970's 1-1/2" filler opening.
It seems there is not much info documented on this topic.
We likely need to do some reference material and diagrams to aid...
You may want to closely re-inspect the brake shoes, wheel cylinder links, and springs to ensure they are in the right place.
I have had a brake shoe spring move out of place and cause all kinds of racket when rolling. Intermittent popping, clicking, etc.
At first glance, all looked good.
My 1970 Cuda has been missing its original fuel cap since before I bought it in 1984. I have a generic Gates cap that works but is annoying to turn as it is a smooth dome versus the factory Stant cap.
The cap must fit the 1970-only 1-1/2" filler neck opening under the license plate. A...
This may help. The bumper in the center is taller. Read this thread in order to get the right kit.
There are kits with three of the same height bumpers and those are incorrect. You need 2 x short for each corner and 1 x tall for the center.
Thread about rear hood bumpers
I avoid absolutes on most things but there is no way I would cut into a non-A/C dashpad to add vents. The material and foam would never work out for factory vents.
Consider adding underdash vents to enjoy the A/C or go all out and change out the entire dashpad, a costly endeavor.
The repro dash VIN plates from the Netherlands are a good try but are easily distinguishable from a real dash VIN plate. That is a blessing as the legality of reproducing the federal VIN plate (Dash VIN plate) is questionable.
Making these allows anyone to turn their B, C, or G-code non-Cuda or...
Most consoles have the bulge problem and often crack in this weak area. I converted my auto console to a manual console and, at the same time, repaired the cracked plastic with a Plastic Welder Kit and JB Weld Plastic Bonder from Amazon. Worked very well using the "squiggly" metal reinforcement...
For the sill plates, similar to inserting a copper wire and using the original screw(s)...
Use a nylon cable tie a.k.a. zip tie. Cut a short piece of the nylon material, bend to an L-shape, insert it in the screw hole, put the sill plate in place, and install the screw.
It should look more like this but it appears to be installed correctly.
Does it work properly? Most issues are with the adjustment for each position's detent. That adjustment is at the transmission lever linkage and uses a rod swivel with a bolt.