You could try putting a bit of 99% isoprophyl alcohol on a rag to see if it would lift. Shouldn't hurt the plastic at all. Something else might be the paint remover made for building model cars, made to not hurt the paint as well.
That is VERY cool! Can't wait to see more pictures!
My wife and I built a 1955 Ford truck for our daughter back in 2015 for her college graduation present. She is a Veterinarian with her own clinic working with large and small animals. We made it 4-wheel drive (used chassis and drive train...
Think I'd rather put up a couple hundred for one with a broken housing and purchase an aftermarket replacement housing, since they go for between $200 - $250. (right now at Classic Industries $208.99 for part ME1654, Year One $229.93 part # HC3266). Mine has the opening for the passenger side...
Just in case your still in need, Rosevillemoparts.com sells e-brake levers for $49 per set (1 per car). Product # 460-800-1 for 11" and 460-660-1 for 10" drums. Very nice reproductions, if you're ok with non-original.
@DetMatt1, I am confused about pic #5. It appears to be a set of standard gauges from a Cuda, not a Challenger, or at least not from a 1970 Challenger.
The 1970 dash was a one-year only. The first 4 pics of the gauges seem to be for a 1970. i.e. the 110 and 120 MPH indicators on the speedo...
Your dash frame does not appear modified, but the plastic dash cover is not correct for a 1970. The 1970 dash (1 year only) had vertical splines along the entirety of the bottom portion and under the gauges as in these samples.
Have you seen this ad? Buy OE PLYMOUTH,DODGE 15" X 7" RALLY RIMS CUDA,CHALLENGER,CHARGER,ROADRUNNER,2944390 in Homer Glen, Illinois, United States, for US $1,299.00
Just an FYI. Your bezel isn't proper for a 1970 Challenger. I am not saying it won't fit, but it is not visually correct. The bezel on a 1970 Challenger has ribs running vertically all along the bottom and the area immediately under the gauges is rounded, not flat.