Hello from WI
- Thread starter eabodywkr
- Start date
I put these connectors in place, as tight as I could get them. Here are some pictures. Where I have the popsicle sticks there is a 0.180" gap, those are some of the worst areas. The front end is horrible .75" along the area near the torsion bar. The rear inside has a nice radius that supposed to fit the rear sub-frame. The raduis matches, it's only off by an inch, haha. I notched the floor pan where the front pan meets the back pan, where I put yellow tape on the outside. That was the first major interference. The tape on the inside is where they have a nice notch that would fit right around the area I notched, were it on the correct side of the connector.
So Xcudame was right, extensive grinding would be required on these connectors to make them fit so you could weld the 10ga connector to the 20 ga floor pan.
gzig5 carve out some extra time, I'm sure you will see the same thing.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
That's not what I would expect! I would scribe where they go. Make up a floor templet and start grinding to fit. Then weld angle tabs inside of the scribed area to weld to. Just my thoughts.
Yeah, it's not what I expected at all. At this point I have decided to return them and make my own. If I have to re-engineer and fabricate, I might as well do the whole thing myself. I know materials will cost me less than $300.
Anyone made their own? Pictures?
gzig5
Well-Known Member
I considered doing my own from scratch. It's not rocket science. Mark the placement path on the floorpan. Establish a start and stop point for each side so the two profiled panels stay in sync to each other. Then use a couple of plastic profile gauges off amazon to map the floor onto a template. Cut the plates out with a plasma and weld them together. Worth buying a cheap plasma for the project if you don't already have. I think I would make each one out of two parts and have the one bent to make an L for the C-channel. Then you only have to weld the other side on and it should be more accurate than trying to cut both profiles into one piece and then bend the c-channel. Otherwise, three pieces welded together on each one to make the C. Hope that makes as much sense in writing as it did in my head.
I'll be getting to putting mine in in a few weeks.
I thought it would be faster to use theirs, and I'm running low on time. Hopefully I didn't miscalculate.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
I have had a number of things made up at a tin shop. Mostly because at times I work in that environment and seen there skill level. My thought were one step beyond. I would use a strip of floor section or make up. That strip would be wide enough to be a flange the same way that the frame rails are attached. By attaching the floor strip then plug welding to floor pan. Of course it would be a little more work fitting. But one done I think it would look a little more like it was original. Tin shops have the tools to make it in a matter of minutes and make it out of 16GA. Plasma table. Take them your templet, demotions and they lay it in minutes and get cut too. The biggest thing is if there busy they'll get yours done. A few years ago I had a few thing done. There rate was about $35. I think that is cheap time bought. They know what there doing and in about an hour they can get it done. Seen it done!
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Xcudame
Well-Known Member
If you don't care about the rear floor (seriously E-Bodies are two seaters with a bench seat in back for groceries or golf clubs), Chryco Psycho is correct, some 2x2 or 2x3 channel will make stronger stiffer connections. And your don't really need to cut the floor pan as a "BFF" will beat the sheet metal about of the way. Bogart in African Queen, "I kinda like kicker her because it gives me pleasure!"
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