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Rust Repair

money pit

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I have a 70 Barracuda that came from the east coast. For the most part the body does not have a lot of rust. I don't know why but they painted over the rust instead of prepping and then painting the car. Can the rust spots be repaired? Or would it be worth it to replace the fender. I know original is better, when possible. The passenger door has some rust at the bottom front edge. The frame has also been patched. Thanks

fender rust.jpg


fender rust 1.jpg
 

1972 AAR Cuda

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If thats the only rust, I would fix it. Original is always better in my mind, but there are limits. A relatively flat spot like this should be repairable, but where there is visible rust there will be more hidden in my experience.
 

money pit

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If thats the only rust, I would fix it. Original is always better in my mind, but there are limits. A relatively flat spot like this should be repairable, but where there is visible rust there will be more hidden in my experience.
I think your are right. a lot of the body and floors have been replaced. The frame has some patches and needs additional work. Original fenders are hard to come by. I saw a pair of AAR fiberglass fenders for sale. Do you know if the AAR had fiberglass fenders? I have an AAR clone. There's evidence it was probably raced (old roll bar mounts and it has a drive shaft loop). Thanks
 

Xcudame

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No more rust than you have, I'd sand it out and use JB-Weld. AAR Cuda and T/A Challengers did have unique fenders! I know for sure (from this website!) the Challenger T/As had unique fenders. Standard fenders were slightly narrower, R/T (15" wheels) were widest with the Challenger T/A in the middle. The wider fenders can be easily checked because you can fit your hand between the outer sheet metal and the headlight bucket area.
 

torredcuda

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Whatever the amount of rust you see multiply by 10 for what you probably really have, once you start digging you will go down the rabbit hole - sandblast, cut out, weld etc.
 

540HemiCuda

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I agree. Rust is cancer. And yes, it will also be far away from where you see it. There is no repairing it. Even sand blasting will not stop it. The ONLY way to deal with it is to cut it out. ANYTHING you coat it with will only trap any moisture that does get behind it from another direction.
 

Challenger RTA

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If thats the only rust, I would fix it.
I could not agree more.
That being the area of the front splash shield area. I would use a 16GA meatal. Clean, grind, cut the area then fab a piece to fit (make templet). Then if you don't have the skill to weld or tig. Minimize distortion. Find someone. Prep work takes most work.

Whatever the amount of rust you see multiply by 10
Here again. I could not agree more. It's an a mission of look and see. But I probably would still fix.

Even sand blasting will not stop it.
Treat with SEM Rust Mort or other. Save yourself some time and grief. Get a gallon.
1756138871035.png
 
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moparleo

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Try to repair but prepare to replace. Cancer has only one sure cure, radical removal. Rust will hide where you can't see it.
This is a clone ?
Replace the metal . Save your money and time for more detailed needs.
 

money pit

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Whatever the amount of rust you see multiply by 10 for what you probably really have, once you start digging you will go down the rabbit hole - sandblast, cut out, weld etc.
I agree. That's what I'm worried about. I bought the car because Barracudas don't come up for sale very often.
 

money pit

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I could not agree more.
That being the area of the front splash shield area. I would use a 16GA meatal. Clean, grind, cut the area then fab a piece to fit (make templet). Then if you don't have the skill to weld or tig. Minimize distortion. Find someone. Prep work takes most work.


Here again. I could not agree more. It's an a mission of look and see. But I probably would still fix.


Treat with SEM Rust Mort or other. Save yourself some time and grief. Get a gallon. View attachment 143877
Thanks, There looks like there have been a number of patches. I plan on making some repairs on the frame. I have a welder so I may tack in in place and get it professionally welded. I think for time sake, I may replace the fender. I live in Southern Calif. will undercoating it , retain moisture? I don't drive in the rain and there is no snow.
 

money pit

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Try to repair but prepare to replace. Cancer has only one sure cure, radical removal. Rust will hide where you can't see it.
This is a clone ?
Replace the metal . Save your money and time for more detailed needs.
That's the plan. Thanks
 

540HemiCuda

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Thanks, There looks like there have been a number of patches. I plan on making some repairs on the frame. I have a welder so I may tack in in place and get it professionally welded. I think for time sake, I may replace the fender. I live in Southern Calif. will undercoating it , retain moisture? I don't drive in the rain and there is no snow.
Yes. Just think; should any moisture get behind the undercoating from any direction, how can it dry? It cant'. It is trapped. And moisture will get behind the undercoating. There just isn't any way to totally seal the bottom of the car. The only places where undercoating should be used is in the wheel well areas to prevent rock chips. But the same situation exists there, it simply is the lesser of two evils. Without some chip protection, the wheel wells would look like they had been sand blasted in short order. Plus the dents in the tops of the fenders from rocks being thrown up at hi way speed. I have seen it several times. Once even on my current Cuda. So under coat the fender wells like the factory did and for the same reason(s).
 

Xcudame

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Remember that rust is iron oxide. You need oxygen (which water has) to turn steel back into iron oxide. Chemical conversion of the iron oxide like Rust-Mort does work! Once treated and the metal is changed, it can be primed and painted (which seals out oxygen) and will no longer oxidize/rust.
 
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