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Have you contacted any aftermarket gauge restoration companies to see if they can modify the existing blank gauge to accept an oil pressure setup? Doesn't seem to be to much of a stretch to do that - but can't say I have seen either...

I would use sandpaper (varying grits) on a good flat surface to clean that up. Then clean everything thoroughly blowing out the passages a couple times to make sure everything is good before reassembling.

Yes, I have ordered parts from them a couple times. I have not had any problems with them and the prices seemed pretty good... I thought they were out of Arizona (not Texas)...

Welcome to the site - what you have looks like a solid project with good prospects for bringing it back to the street!

Nice score!!! Looks like some real good bones to start with!! Keep us posted on the next steps - we would love to see where you go with it !!

Looks like a beautiful ride! Congrats on finding your dream car, but sorry to see you selling this one - I understand though!

Nice photo of the Cuda, it looks like you have a great starting point for a nice ride! I am a fan of the 72 Cuda, especially the 340 cars. I have had 3 72's - two 340 cars (one was a 340 Cuda and one was a 340 Barracuda) as well as a 318 car (Barracuda) that I dropped a 340 in for a while. My...

Nice RT !!! I have always been a Cuda guy (Ive had 3 and still have my first one) but after buying a 74 Challenger the Challengers are growing on me - lol

Welcome - I like your car! I would like to hear more about it!

Not sure if your paint question still applies, but I have had good luck with automotive grade (auto paint store) rattle can clear. I would recommend trying a hidden area by lightly scuffing (scotch brite) cleaning with a wax and grease remover and the apply the clear. A rattle can that has a...

If you are restoring a T/A or AAR and it's your VIN stamped on it and its in decent shape, I would guess it would be worth around $5k or more. A complete engine can bring more than $10k from what I have seen listed (don't know what they sold for). If I am buying or selling I usually look for...

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Welcome to the site! Always good to see and hear from other Mopar enthusiasts! I am an A and E- body owner as well.

I am pretty sure (99%) the T/A transmission was the exactly the same as the standard 340 (727) transmission, meaning the pan was the standard pan depth.

No problem, but its not my diagram - I borrowed it from B-Bodies only, but jumping the yellow wire was what I understood to be the fix (bypass)... I plan to try that with mine, since I also have a 74... my interlok was disabled before I got the car and I needed to understand the system to make...

I had to go look myself, because I have a 74 Challenger and have had issues similar to yours (none right now). Here is more info from for B Bodies only; 74 charger identify this part? This was a schematic they used (created), so I am not taking credit for this myself... Hopefully this helps.

Could it be the seat belt interlock wiring? 74 was the first year for that and it might be the issue...

I bought a sheet metal nut insert that worked very well for items like the side mirrors mounted on the doors. I recently replaced my tired chrome drivers mirror and added a passenger mirror with aftermarket painted mirrors using sheet metal nut inserts; I know, I hate buying from Amazon, but...

The AAR had a fiberglass hood, but never came with fiberglass fenders...

If thats the only rust, I would fix it. Original is always better in my mind, but there are limits. A relatively flat spot like this should be repairable, but where there is visible rust there will be more hidden in my experience.