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If it is not real cold or no winter driving - leave it or remove will cause no problem.

Try Mega Parts.

The reason I suggested using the stock bolts is they can only be used with iron heads. The washers on the ARP allow the soft aluminum head to be protected from the fastener as it tightens. ARP makes good stuff.

With iron heads just use the stock bolts.

I read if the car was equipped with a factory high performance engine it also got the black grille and tail panel. My car is a non R/T with a 340 and it is black in both places.

There is a post on the FBBO site you should look at. Vapor Separator is the title posted by Charger Fan. The diagram and explanation posted by Vaanth will help you for sure.

I wouldn't worry about the liquid fuel return. The car never had it originally and fuel vapor lock does not seem to be one of your issues. I would concentrate on the fuel tank venting side of things.

Just to clarify. The three lines I mention are hard pipe lines that run under the car from the engine bay to the rear of the car - not a 3 nipple fuel sender/pickup. Your sender is likely to have been only one pipe originally and if the tank does not have the 4 vent nipples it is also wrong...

The pipe on the fuel sender/pickup is for liquid fuel to return to the fuel tank and has a separate line running back down the car. These cars had 3 lines fitted at the factory. 1 for fuel to the pump, 1 liquid return line and 1 for the tank vent system. As your car is 1972 and the high...

I have Koni's on both my cars - fitted straight on. Perhaps you do not have the right ones????

That is the standard dash switch plate. Performance Car Graphics has the new plates - or they did? Set the switch plate up flat and soak the decal plate in turpentine over night to break down the glue. I just levered my one up with a toothpick. Fix the new one on with Elmers rubber cement.

I can't remember the part numbers but I know I got them easily from the Koni website.

I assume you are talking about the squirt hole to oil the piston bores? Eliminated even by the OE companies in later years - not a problem.

Koni shocks are good also. They are adjustable.

Some of them may have been jig alignment holes used by the factory welders/ chassis construction workers.

I don't believe plastic and pop rivets play well together. The rivet expands while being fitted and can crack the plastic - either when fitted or over time.

There is nothing like the sound of a V8 powered car going up through the gears of a manual transmission - even when being driven gently. That is the appeal for me.

If you are getting liquid fuel up that line something is wrong. A smell of fuel in the engine bay wafting out of the open line is one thing but not raw or liquid fuel.

No I don't think so. The PCV will create a slight depression in the tank that should deal with any vapours created by evaporating/expanding fuel. After all the engine is gulping the same dirty fuel vapours via the carburettor and fuel pump. What vaporises off the fuel will be free of particulate...

Yes that would be fine I think. I am only speculating but if you cap that line the fuel tank which has to see atmospheric pressure to work correctly - you "may" get the systems of a blocked vent. After a few miles the fuel pump can suck the tank in or the car runs out of fuel.