Might have the same problem with mine. although I am using the Holley mount system and all is not yet set in place. Could you slot the motor mount plates to raise that side up just a bit to gain some clearance?? Or space out the rubber mount??
Not enough info. Factory radiator with driver's side top hose?? Aftermarket with it on Pass side?? are the inlet/outlet on the motor and radiator same size diameter?? etc.... You could use a universal aluminum hose kit (corrugated) from like Jegs or speedway (they have black ones, so they don't...
Look on Facebook marketplace, there is a gentleman from Kingsville TX area (Just south of Corpus Christi) , Mopar Jim. runs Mopars of Texas, I have heard they do good work. (Just a suggestion)
Motor platform doesn't matter, all interchangeable. And yes the MOPAR rear sump kit is cheaper than the Holley or Mildon pan kits. But to my knowledge only Holley makes the Midsump pan (works well with stock suspensions and K frames). Only drawback is whether or not it fits your needs. Caveat...
Cars are front sumped, trucks are rear sumped. Holley makes a nice mid sump pan as another option. Pans really aren't all that expensive to get the one that'll suit your needs.
Yup Chris knows his stuff. My current swap is a 6.4l 8hp70 going into a 55 Chrysler Town and Country station wagon. It has 3.53 gears, so i'll see how that works out. Another source for the 8HP's is Russell at Sound German Automotive, I'm using his swap harness this time for the 8hp and a Mopar...
You do....But give Chris a call at HOTWIREAUTO.COM and discuss it with him. He has what ya need and can tell you more about the NAG-1 swap. Me personally, I switched to a 545RFE out of a 2wd truck or Durango. No "extra" donor vechicle parts required.
I've got a 512 stroker(440 Source) 6_barrel set-up and am wanting to go EFI. Motor should easily make over 600 HP (limit for the Fitech) so I am looking at the F&B set-up. For the F&B setup. what engine management system did you use? Other than fuel system upgrade, what "additional" pieces did...
Not sure on which wire on the factory harness. I would use a volt meter and test each one for constant 12v while turning the ignition key. Again the ones I've wired weren't factory harnesses. they were universal GM style. So for a universal Harness the 12v ignition feed is a large guage pink...
From their instructions
3. Pink (12v Run and start, ignition key on position) – This wire needs to be taken to the Ignition switch “On” or “Run” position. It is important that this maintains an unbroken connection to 12v while moving the key to the start position.
4. Yellow (12v in Start...
I can understand using a 518 IF....IF you are going to stay with a traditional small block i.e. 318, 340, 360. But since as you mentioned you're looking at installing a modern 5.7L Hemi, then WHY would you want to take a step back and install an older style/functional transmission. Get the...
He did say without breaking the bank, lol... BTW my 545rfe for the 5.7l came with the motor ($3k for the whole setup), so no added cost, the 6.4l setup, I bought a used one for $550 and had it rebuilt for $1000, so.......fairly cheap. Oh and the truck CPUs have the TCM integrated into it...
Your decision will be based primarily on what engine management/wiring harness you decide to use. The MOPAR harness is designed for standard transmission, and aftermarket harness from someone like HOTWIREAUTO.com can be had for either the 545RFE, NAG-1 or 8spd autos. HOWEVER...... the NAG1 and 8...
Hard no......Expensive? Eh a bit more than a conventional small block, but there is some "simplicity/safety" that comes with it by way of modern computer controlled tuning and such. The CPU adjusts timing and fuel at the micro sec level without any input from you. A traditional stroker small...