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In terms of "original" E-bodies, the tachometer wire was only added to rallye dash instrument models. It will NOT typically be present on cars shipped with standard dashes (lacking a tach). It's a GRAY wire with white stripe, terminal #20 on the bulkhead connector, that feeds the OEM...

I will reinforce I have heard the Los Angeles-made cars, did not include build sheets buried within their interiors, as frequently as the other manufacturing plants during the same muscle-car era, 1965-1974. I think I've only looked hard in 3 or 4 LA-built E-bodies in the last decades, and...

I see these on epay, from time to time. Herb's Parts: 1968-70 340 EXHAUST MANIFOLD SET, Manifolds, 2863545-52R

All the 1970-1974 Barracuda/Cuda trunk lids are identical in bolt pattern and fitment. They vary a little on the underside, but one size fits all, more or less. Because of it's large size, shipping will hurt and be in the $200 range.

Research suggests the OEM bubble was made from a fiberglass-epoxy slurry used with injection molding.

This vintage technical drawing suggests the two emblems are applied together as one decal.

I believe the pulley from the factory was exposed metal, similar to the master brake cylinder. If not "exposed" or bare, then possibly a black iron phosphate coating, that in time, surface rusts.

This topic can be really frustrating when you don't have a "correct example car" from which to compare yours to and learn from. Many of the linkage parts between the 383 and 440 (4-barrel) configurations are interchangeable. Some exceptions are: (image from a 1970 Parts Catalog for...

I believe the 971 pan is a 5 quart pan, that will work in both B and E bodies. @hdwrench And if you're planning to rev it over 5K, a windage tray and that extra quart on the aftermarket (440 source) six-quart pan (with matching pickup) may be a better option.

These look as if they may be from a 1970 LA (Los Angeles Chrysler Plant manufactured) product.

I believe the factory color is semi-gloss black. There may be better media than sand to prep your suspension parts prior to paint. Sand works great, but other media, such as crushed walnut shells and baking soda do very well removing rust without adding the tiny pits sand blasting sometimes...

I've replaced a few 727s, and the building block process works well to elevate the tranny. It is now my "goto" when a jack isn't an option. But there was one time I wrestled one in laying on my back, after a friend helped me move the tranny onto my chest. It took every bit of my strength...

I seem to recall some kind of indicator mark, on 1970 OEM door panels that were undrilled, showing the location of the joystick hole. Even so, it is possible newer aftermarket door panels do not contain this mark, which seems flawed. The link below still works for me...

Finding this exact engine block, with those numbers stamped on it, and finding it for sale is the longest of long shots. But I think you did the right thing, by posting on this message board. Consider posting on other related boards, too. You may need to check back from time to time to see...

You may want to google and research the Holley Sniper EFI conversion. This may not be an issue specific to the Challenger, and it's possible others have run in to this same problem and posted their fixes. Your audience is somewhat limited, here, to mopar-specific topics.

Over the years, this has been tested more than once. I seem to recall the conclusion was as @Challenger RTA suggests, the scoops are too low, within the turbulent slipstream along the surface for there to be any real passive benefit to opening those up. We're talking about passive cooling and...

If you're going for an ideal, you'll want to use a break-in oil, with the zinc already blended into the oil. Some sources suggest adding the zinc (such as ZDDP additive) to standard motor oil does not protect the camshaft on initial startup as well as the pre-blended (with zinc) break-in oils...

Just.... pull. they are held in place by friction. Don't squeeze so hard they bust apart, but simply pull them off the shafts.

I've had experiences wear one short causes another. This happens when the first wire heats up inside a wire harness and melts the insulation of adjacent wires causing additional shorts. More than once, have I found myself scratching my head why I have a short on something I have not...

I do not know where the image in post #3 came from, but it seems a standard reinterpretation of the manual. The 1970-71 Parts manual is a bit vague on this, in my opinion - perhaps even in error, by some accounts. In my observational experience, the Shaker Hood hinge spring on Barracudas/Cudas...