Those are great parts. The frame bushings look like 71 up B body rear bar as they have the bolt on bushing, and parallel sides.
The link look like C, Truck or late B front.
To be fair, I said he has never put up numbers. (of any combo or total)
Maybe you can ask?
I do have a issue with data collectors that privatize registries. There should be a vinless list of total cars, color, engine, trans at least.
Something like @Cuda Hunter 's M46 list.
No one is hunting...
Good to see you back. Congratulations on not selling it when the money was flying around.
The 19 number could be challenged lately as more and more car keep popping up. 5, 6bbl cars so 14, 340-383. I have never counted how many of each have been mentioned.
The person to ask would be Ola, but...
You can use a matched pair of any e body hinges on any year of e body, but the hinges are definitely different between years.
With 74 being the most different.
Resto Rick has an i.d. chart
I've had these "just in case", but now its time to offer them up. Freshly pulled out of the depths of the shop and rinsed off.
Rust free, high arch, and even height pair of factory springs. From a pretty low mile car.
The factory spec is 7.75", to the center of the spring eye. These are...
Everything about a big shop costs more. Heat, surface water costs, taxes, etc.
Crap expands to fill the space. I could drive in and do a u turn inside when I got it.
Now I need to sell cars to have room to work.
10's.
The old round number average,
10 sec
140mph
30" w 4.10, or 32" with 4.30.
If you go lower, 4 56 or 4.88, you might be quick but trap less.
Break it down with tire size and gear, but all combos get you to about 6750 in the traps. And your going to need a pretty fair hp. Approx. 550-600...
2 of the fastest normal cars I've been in, were built 318's
I didn't believe it when they told me.
The fastest street car I've ridden in was a rotax( I'm thinking now it was a procharger) 400 chevy, 69 Nova. Steel, street car.
The engine was all aluminum, and chevy in appearance only. Dyno'd at...
Seam sealer, window urethane, or weld them. The only reason to cover them is, they are closer to being above your vent hole.
They are not a leak potential, as the cowl screens go to the same place.
Seam sealer.
Nice cowl. I dont see any rust.
The picture shows that area has been ground or smoothed.
The factory had sharp protusions that bit into a rubber wedge in that spot. The wedge held the windsheild at the correct height.
I could find some and show you.
I should add, only early 70, my 2/70 has no holes