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I have a complete set for sale on this site. PM me with any questions or interest.

I had an issue years ago with a brass proportioning valve that the piston didn't want to move back to center after I had a rear brake cylinder fail and lost fluid to the rear brakes. I removed the switch and used a small pick to reach in and move the piston back. You may have some luck with...

To me, this scenario indicates that when you press hard on the pedal, the piston is trying to go back to center from which ever side it is on. Effectively opening the ground. I have heard that stomping on the pedal a few times can move the piston back but I have no proof of it. Worth a try though.

Usually, it is a broken line and loss of fluid and or pressure to either front or back. I can't imagine a bad master cylinder causing it because they either push fluid or not. If the brakes have been improperly bled, I suppose that could indicate a problem and make the piston move to one side or...

You should see an open circuit when testing the switch to ground. Your brake light is always hot looking for a ground to complete the circuit. If there is a problem with either the front or rear brakes, the piston in the valve will move to that side providing a ground that sends a ground to...

Sorry, It sold yesterday.

IMO, I would stick with the original valve and get the parts to rebuild it if necessary. I have had a couple of the brass units from Inline tube fail from new so they don't have a real good track record. I think all you need is the pressure switch and yours will function as new.

This is a used but re-chromed shift gate from a 1970 Challenger. It has been triple chromed so better than new or the repopped ones. It has a new shifter slide with the round hole for the 1970 E body cars. It will work on the 71-74 B & E body cars but the shifter slide would need to be modified...

I doubt it. My guess is switch located on your proportioning valve has failed. When they fail, they send a ground to the brake light.

The cast iron proportioning valve uses a different switch. I have a cast iron valve from a 7 Challenger that had the front discs. I have not tested it but it was working when I parted the car out about 10 years ago. Here are some pics of it.

Wander no more...... They are threaded. If you have an old distribution block, they are the same. You shouldn't even lose any fluid swapping it out.

Yeah, those switches do go bad from time to time. I have had a couple fail. Luckily, I had a couple used switches from distribution blocks that I replaced the bad ones with. Someone must be making them since the new In-line proportioning valves have new switches. I saw a NOS Mopar switch on ebay...

I'm gonna say the problem is in your turn signal circuit. When I had that problem, it was because of my turn signal lever being too tight and would not travel all the way back to center. Check to see if it happens that when you take a left turn and your canceler doesn't center up. In that case...

It is possible the stainless molding was not bent properly to start with. Maybe try to find another molding to lay on top to test whether it is the molding or the W/S opening.

My 70 Challenger never had those ears so I'd say chop em. I don't know what they were for. Someone will chime in though.

I have a wood grained one that needs repair. Cheap. PM me if interested.

Without the vinyl top, why bother with installing the SE window. Although they look neat, they are hard to see out of and it would take a bucket of bondo to fill in the area that is sure to crack and peel. IMO, your friend would be better off swapping his car for one more to his liking. I liked...

Not so......When I restored my 70 R/T SE Challenger back in 1998, no one had the one piece SE headliner. I had a parts car that had the bowed headliner. I robbed the bows and sail panels from that car and kept my SE window. I sold the car back in 2013 and don't have pictures of how the rear...

As they say....Never say never but as far as I know, the overhead console was part of the SE package along with the badging, leather seats, rear window plug, carpeted lower door panels and the rear garnish panel above the tail lights.

All 70 Challenger SE's had a one piece molded headliner and all had the overhead console. No bows.