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There are ways to run higher output alternators and retain the originality and function of the stock ammeter. These passenger car ammeters from this time can handle quite a bit of current when its connections are maintained. Upgrading the alternator capacity alone does not create additional...

As indicated the 3-way female bullet taps are for optional accessories not present on all vehicles. Color coded, yellow on a tan wire is from a fuse in the fuse box on the accessory bus, options vary, but if A/C equipped, the A/C dash harness connects there to provide power to the compressor...

No, the ammeter will not cause any problems when it's connections are maintained and it is operated within the current levels it was designed to handle. It is telling you that there is a problem elsewhere in the charging system, as is its function. Make sure there is no added aftermarket loading...

If originality is not a big concern, a good quality generic Nylon cable clamps would work well. Would require small mounting screw holes be drilled. Can get them anywhere in various sizes. Also available in stainless with rubber sleeves.

Originally there would have been dipped plastic coated metal clips spot welded to the forward side of the upper core support for most cars.

Should be the same as this '72 B-body.

As indicated, part of the light package. Function? It illuminates the ignition lock when the door is opened, remains on for a minute or so as controlled by the time delay relay. On an E-body, would have a headlight switch title lamp connected to the time delay relay as well. The pictured...

Slips over one of the valve cover harness tangs.

That level of detail was available in the engineering diagrams from that time. Some years and model lines have been published as assembly manuals of late. Haven’t seen anything specifically for E-bodies for any years as yet, closest you will come to a ’73 E-body would be a diagram for a ’72...

Follow the link posted the other day. 2 manuals in '73, most of the electrical stuff is in the chassis manual.

Factory service manuals, have a collection of them from around that time. Fairly easy to get originals, reprints or digital versions from various sources including Ebay. Mymopar.com has some free downloads, but they don't cover all brands/years.

Did reply to that thread with some info.

First, I gave up on these cheap reproduction T/S switches years ago, mainly for durability issues at the switch head. They are junk, won’t have anything to do with them anymore. Yes, the dimensions of the connector are out of tolerance as compared to the originals. They can be forced together...

Originally the steering column wiring just connected to the dash harness just to the right of the column, never saw them wrapped up over the top of the column from the factory.

1000199 NUT SET FUSE BLOCK E & 71-74B, ELECTRICAL, 1000199 :Mopar Fasteners, Clips & Hardware

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There are stamped nuts that go on the engine compartment side that secure the fuse box/bulkhead connector.

Some platforms/years used plastic slip isolators on the column support mountings, those had a ground wire from the column to the support to ensure horn switch circuit continuity to the body. Assume your ’73 E-body is the same as the ’70 I am currently working on, no plastic isolators, no ground...

Reinstalling the dash involves removing those two studs from steering column support, installing the two lower side captured washer 5/16” side bolts partially, leaving them stick out a bit. Place the dash frame’s open lower mounting flanges onto the bolts and rolling it up into place and secure...