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I groove mine as well. Some of my engines are solid rollers and others are hyd f.t. engines.

It is a Canton Racing Accumulator. Same as Moroso brand and others. It is a 3 quart. I use it as a primer with the electric solenoid which is what fitting you must be seeing and as an accumulator/accusump with a 15 PSI safety switch.

Sounds like you may also need to re-center your axle within the body.

Nothing modified or added. All stock all factory parts. Nothing rubs anywhere. It might rub with large enough bumps with 4 or 5 people in the car, which is almost never.

Pretry sure mine were 5/16-18.

I have 3 other Keith Black cast aluminum blocks. All of mine are newer than yours (mid 90's through early 2000's) being that mine are slightly different than yours in a few areas. Most used Hemi parts are used up, cracked, broken or mileaged out pieces. Most cases it's better to purchase new...

I have 5 different sets of wheels and tires that I swap around between different cars. On my red Challenger are all 235/60/15's in the front and 295/50/15's on the rear with 15"x8" wheels with a 4-1/2" back space with all stock suspension and wheel well openings. The other cars are B Bodies so...

I personally hate how they look in the engine bay. I made some chromoly tubular brackets and mounted mine behind my front bumper using the back side of the radiator bolts to mount it with some hex nuts on the radiator bolts pertruding through the core support.

Nice project. I like it. My red 70 Challenger is a 383 R/T S.E. also.

Depends on the set up. My blue 70 Challenger sits lower than all of my other cars and I have the most clearance on this car with headers, an 11 quart oil system, deep trans pan and 3-1/2" exhaust using a tubular K frame with coil overs.

15"x8" with a 4-1/2" b.s.

I run 235/60/15's on the front with 5 different sets of wheels and tires with all stock front suspension and ride height with no rubbing issues. The 2 other sets are currently on other cars.

We welded my own bracket for my chromoly tubular steering column we made using the factory studs under the dash. I also custom made the factory steering wheel so it is removable.

Welcome.

The 2K is excellent to use when you don't have all of the equipment like a compressor a paint gun and all of the supplies like sealer, epoxy primer or self etching primer, paint and clear along with lacquer thinner and everything for clean up.

Good to know I suppose. Both my 70 R/T S.E. Challenger and my 70 Charger R/T S.E. have power windows and I can honestly say that I have never had to look for either relay as both cars power windows have always functioned just fine.

This is my self etching primer and hemi orange Duplicolor engine enamel process that is about 6 or 7 years old now with thousands of miles and many passes.still holding up well.

Without you knowing all of the specs of your engine it is just a guessing game for us. If the so called rebuild is just a gasket job and repaint on a later smog 440, your horsepower is way less than the 385 you think with only 7 or 8:1 compression. Sure, a 3000-3400ish converter and 4:10 gears...

Hmm, I have always just dumped them in a 5 gallon bucket with some cleaning solution for a couple of days and they come out looking like new. Then throw them out in the sun to dry.

I have always just used self etching primer and then Dupicolor Hemi orange engine enamel spray or Hirsh's brush on.