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Hopefully, they may get less expensive.

I have only had my 70 columns apart over the years and as mentioned they are different. It been so many years now since I had one apart. I don't know if I would even remember how to put it back together now.

No, no modifications to the body or inner fenders aprons. I do have Indy rocker covers that I painted with wrinkle finish paint that have a shock tower relief cast into them, if youlook closely. I am able to just barely remove the cover without any issues. Most of my entire engine is studded...

Wow, just looking at current pricing for them. I want to say they are now almost double for everything from what I have invested into mine.

Oops, I was trying to go off of memory. I guess it is a 20-25 psi switch per this photo. I probably purchased it over 15 years ago with no issues. It still works great. The thought behind it was to always prime the engine before firing. Saves on dry starts. And, while making a pass if the oil...

I groove mine as well. Some of my engines are solid rollers and others are hyd f.t. engines.

It is a Canton Racing Accumulator. Same as Moroso brand and others. It is a 3 quart. I use it as a primer with the electric solenoid which is what fitting you must be seeing and as an accumulator/accusump with a 15 PSI safety switch.

Sounds like you may also need to re-center your axle within the body.

Nothing modified or added. All stock all factory parts. Nothing rubs anywhere. It might rub with large enough bumps with 4 or 5 people in the car, which is almost never.

Pretry sure mine were 5/16-18.

I have 3 other Keith Black cast aluminum blocks. All of mine are newer than yours (mid 90's through early 2000's) being that mine are slightly different than yours in a few areas. Most used Hemi parts are used up, cracked, broken or mileaged out pieces. Most cases it's better to purchase new...

I have 5 different sets of wheels and tires that I swap around between different cars. On my red Challenger are all 235/60/15's in the front and 295/50/15's on the rear with 15"x8" wheels with a 4-1/2" back space with all stock suspension and wheel well openings. The other cars are B Bodies so...

I personally hate how they look in the engine bay. I made some chromoly tubular brackets and mounted mine behind my front bumper using the back side of the radiator bolts to mount it with some hex nuts on the radiator bolts pertruding through the core support.

Nice project. I like it. My red 70 Challenger is a 383 R/T S.E. also.

Depends on the set up. My blue 70 Challenger sits lower than all of my other cars and I have the most clearance on this car with headers, an 11 quart oil system, deep trans pan and 3-1/2" exhaust using a tubular K frame with coil overs.

15"x8" with a 4-1/2" b.s.

I run 235/60/15's on the front with 5 different sets of wheels and tires with all stock front suspension and ride height with no rubbing issues. The 2 other sets are currently on other cars.

We welded my own bracket for my chromoly tubular steering column we made using the factory studs under the dash. I also custom made the factory steering wheel so it is removable.

Welcome.

The 2K is excellent to use when you don't have all of the equipment like a compressor a paint gun and all of the supplies like sealer, epoxy primer or self etching primer, paint and clear along with lacquer thinner and everything for clean up.