Search results for query: *

Cool idea. I have two 70 Challengers. One is an R/T S.E. with the small rear window also. I guess I have never really had any issues backing up or driving mine all these years. I do also have the passenger side mirror option and that does help.

I own two 70 Challengers and neither one has these loops nor a hole drilled in the consoles for them. I also have two extra 70 consoles and neither one if them have them either. I do have another console that came out of a 72 Challenger and it does still have the loop attached. I am guessing...

K frame and motor mounts swap and it is all bolt in. Or, some Schumacher conversion (or whatever they call themselves today) mounts onto the std V8 K Frame could be used. However, you would need to modify the #1 Hemi Header tube slightly.

Same, I just make the brackets needed. Mine has had a 68 and 69 Chevelle, square body Chevy pick up cab and bed, and now 2 different 70 Challengers up on it. Odd thing is we had to modify the rear brackets to work on the second Challenger.

Both are reputable sources. I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

I don't remember those holes on my blue 70 Challenger when it was stripped down. We noticed them on my buddy's 70 Challenger while apart and couldn't figure them out. He just welded them closed.

Are these original carbs or the reproduction carbs that were again canceled several years back? I am assuming originals if you had to send them off to be rebuilt. Depending who you sent them to for the rebuild if you didn't send them to Holley direct then they probably would have sent them to...

Man, that is a good looking 77 Fury. I always thought that body style was a good looking 4 door.

You guys have talked me into it. I want to add rear sway bars onto two of my 70 B Bodies and on one of my 70 E Bodies. My other 70 E Body already has an anti roll bar under it in the rear. Who has the most factory correct mounting style rear sway bars?

Ouch. That really sucks. So sorry to see this.

Must have been a Chevy. I have seen that on other buddy's Chevy engines also.

They need to be high backs in an E Body.

Hopefully, they may get less expensive.

I have only had my 70 columns apart over the years and as mentioned they are different. It been so many years now since I had one apart. I don't know if I would even remember how to put it back together now.

No, no modifications to the body or inner fenders aprons. I do have Indy rocker covers that I painted with wrinkle finish paint that have a shock tower relief cast into them, if youlook closely. I am able to just barely remove the cover without any issues. Most of my entire engine is studded...

Wow, just looking at current pricing for them. I want to say they are now almost double for everything from what I have invested into mine.

Oops, I was trying to go off of memory. I guess it is a 20-25 psi switch per this photo. I probably purchased it over 15 years ago with no issues. It still works great. The thought behind it was to always prime the engine before firing. Saves on dry starts. And, while making a pass if the oil...

I groove mine as well. Some of my engines are solid rollers and others are hyd f.t. engines.

It is a Canton Racing Accumulator. Same as Moroso brand and others. It is a 3 quart. I use it as a primer with the electric solenoid which is what fitting you must be seeing and as an accumulator/accusump with a 15 PSI safety switch.

Sounds like you may also need to re-center your axle within the body.