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Update: it's been a while since I posted but I have been slowly making progress. My harness from Chris @ hotwire auto finally came in. Its' a nice harness, just wish it was more flexible. They used a thick heat shrink type material so it doesn't bend that good. He even made me an extension...

All the factory lines are gone and I'm running a returnless system. Being braided lines I wasn't sure if there was added concern if an accident happened side impact, and leaking fuel. Forgot to mention I'm also mini tubbed so there isn't a gap between the frame rail and inner fender to conceal it.

Hey all, I'm trying to figure out the best way to run my fuel line. I'm running -8AN (1/2") stainless braided PTFE. I also have US Cartool subframe connectors. Is there any issues running it along the outside rear frame rail to along the subframe connector to the front? This would be similar to...

Yeah, I never found a sheet unfortunately. I'm going to post some updates in the build thread and YouTube today.

What motor are you putting in? What size headers did you get?

Ok, I'll see what I neeed, thanks for the help. Looks like they have some options. What do I do with the top two long studs that are sticking out?

Hey all, thinking about going with an electric master brake set up instead of hydraboost. Trying to keep the engine bay clean as possible. What do I need to convert from the 4 bolt to two bolt cylinder? There is a large plate I believe was used to stiffen up the firewall as well. Is that removed...

I have a complete K Member that I removed recently to install an RMS K Member. I'll try to get some photos later today.

adapters from Aeroflow? I was thinking about using them on my heater core lines to convert to AN fittings. Looks like they compress an o-ring down around the factory barb fitting. I haven't found much information on them so I wanted to know your thoughts.

They were +1" forward but it was too much so we went 5/8 forward instead. Fits like a glove now and I feel this is the best set up.

Great news today... I was able to sneak away to the garage for a couple of hours last night. I swapped out the motor mounts and everything fits perfectly now. Plenty of room. I was shocked how simple it was. In the end, the mounts were moved 5/8 forward and everything clears with plenty of room...

A fun update... I received my ported blower back from Brett @ Jokerz performance today. Really pleased with the port work. The packaging was next level, so nice, I'll be keeping it. Can't wait to get this thing purring.

Well.... I hit my first road block. Test fit the headers last night and the pass side is pretty much touching the motor mount bolt. I can barely slip a credit card in between the bolt and primary. The drivers side is way off. Currently working with Bill @ Riley motorsports on the fix. He's...

I'll see what I can come up wit for bushings.

Yes, I'm in the bay area.

Next up is to figure out what pump to use. I have it narrowed down to two pumps due to the factory pump being absurdly priced. Davies Craig Electric Booster Pump Kits DC-9040 this flows 9.2 gpm. Many use this pump in the LS swap world with no issue. Or Meziere Remote Electric Water Pumps...

Thank you all. I will solid mount it like the stock unit and keep an eye on it. If needed, I can always add a rubber bushing down the road.

Hey all, something i just thought about. Any issues mounting the radiator without rubber isolators/bushings? I can't find any info in regards to factory bushings. I decided to remove the hood latch so I can get the radiator closer to the core support. From what I see most solid mount the radiator.

I removed the center support bar & latch after work today. As you can see it looks much nicer up against the core support. It also gives me better clearance for hose routing. I'll try to come up with something to add a little extra support to the front grill area since I had to remove the...