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I'd bet a six pack of beer there's nothing wrong with Mancini's crush sleeve. That said, with the solid sleeve and shims available, it sure is the best way to go! The cone type sure grip really isn't the best out there as when they wear out, it's garbage time! Sure, there are ways to Micky Mouse...

Is what you're looking for in the link below? Might be cheaper somewhere, but I've never had a problem with Year One. https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/challenger.cuda/body/lenses-.-bezels-.-components/side-marker-lights-.-components

Thanks guys! I knew people more knowledgeable than me regarding options would now. Really, even if not stock, a power steering cooler is a great idea. So is an auxillary automatic transmission cooler. All things standard on a taxi or police vehicle are good to have in my opinion.

I didn't see a cooler listed in the options list I have but I'm including @MoparCarGuy in this post because he has all things Mopar option wise. Well, at least a whole lot more than I have!

Good information @Challenger RTA . After 50+ years, all the screws and bolts that serve as grounds are suspect. Corrosion happens. Sometimes it's amazing what a little sand paper and dielectric grease can cure.

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! Please post some pictures of your 69 RR, 70 GTX and 2010 Challenger! I agree, if you can swing it, keep the two B-Bodies and buy an E-Body! Can't have too many Mopars! 😀

Also a broken Drivers side mount could be setting up higher because it didn't fall back into place.

See below for more information from the Master Restoration and Judging Guidelines 1970-1974 E-Bodies.

Should be pretty level side to side. Front to rear is pretty level too. I didn't check the tire pressures before measuring, but they look about the same.

Sorry for my opinion if it offends anyone, but kinda sad to see an A66 car turned into a 572 Hemi. They should have used a 318 or slant six car if you ask me. $70k for a convertible A66 with a 4spd isn't a terrible buy! 🙂

Oh, and yes, the 440 distributor is about 1/2" longer and the adaptor would not interfere with the hood. But sounds like they make the correct distributor!

DO NOT run the vehicle very long this way, but temporarily disconnect the locker cable and wire the kickdown lever all the way back. If the cable was the problem, this will prove it. Just don't run it too much this way because it will cause severe harm to your transmission. Do you have power...

A lot of Moog parts are made in the USA, but I was saddened when I bought some bushings that were made in China. Really, if kept properly lubed, it shouldn't matter too much were it was made. I definitely use the one you took off first as my choice.

I assumed they made a 440 as it's more popular for conversions. Obviously if they make one for the 383, use it. 🙂 Personally, I still love my Thermoquads and factory electronic distributors because I grew up tuning them for my needs. But that seems to be a fast fading lost art.

Regardless of which route you go, you have a lot of work to do as you can see the difference between the parts still in your engine compartment compared to the other two cars shown above. It all comes down to how much time and money YOU are willing to spend. Fuel lines and brake lines were not...

Get the 440 distributor and use adaptor to run it in your 383. There might be cheaper ones out there, but Mancini stands behind their products! https://www.manciniracing.com/mopp3690276a.html?gQT=2

Remember stall speed goes up when torque goes up and your 512 will Definitely make more torque than the old 440, so you might not be too bad off with that Hughes torque convertor!

Welcome to FEBO from the desert of the American Southwest! Nice looking Challenger! A 383 is a nice engine!

Both look correct in the areas that matter enough they don't look the same. The older one looks like it was installed at one time. The newer Moog arm might be a Chinese copy. Sigh!

@don selleck, been there before unfortunately.